Water Everywhere: John Haggard's WINE BANTER

Water Everywhere by John Haggard

Despite the abundant welcome winter rains we’re experiencing, the truth is that we have to plan for a sustainable future, one where we can live in harmony with our beautiful surroundings, River and the endangered Coho and waning Steelhead, and no matter how much it pours, we just don’t have enough water.

The past few years, I’ve been asked a repeated question, for which I’ve always hesitated to become too involved in for fear of alienating grape-growers, winemakers and all those persons who rely on our scarce water: what can winegrowers do as part of the solution for Sonoma County’s future?

Dry-farming is a method of keeping vines alive over the first three to five years with minimum water, while they develop tap roots capable of reaching a depth where there is moisture year-round. One great example of a “dry farmed” vineyard is “Precious Mountain” located in Cazadero, owned by Lyndon and Donnie Schatzberg. The vineyard produces much smaller clusters, however, with more concentrated flavors. The prestigious Williams Selyem winery exults this vineyard designate pinot noir as one of their finest examples of what Sonoma Coast pinot noir can be.

About twenty years ago, while working for Silks Restaurant at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in San Francisco, I met a gentleman who had just returned from Oregon State and was preparing to leave the following morning to go to Napa Valley. The subject foremost in his mind was the prevalence of “phylloxera” which was consuming rootstock across the Pacific Northwest. I’d never heard of this pest, “phylloxera” and he explained how the demise of these vineyards would cause a mass re-planting onto rootstock resistant to phylloxera such as the Georges de Latour: this meant the end of numerous dry-farmed vineyards at the time.

Then, let’s fast-forward to just seven years ago when I witnessed two vineyards that had been dry-farmed and were in the middle of being uprooted for no other reason than to chase a trend of planting pinot noir. Whereas this has happened numerous times since the late 1960’s, it was the first time that I felt a passion for having lost a dry-farmed vineyard which would be replaced by one requiring irrigation during the hot summer. I was also sentimentally attached to these vineyards, as it had been the first winery I’d worked at some twenty-five years before, and I always found myself returning to the winery to try the latest release from these old vines.

This is when I really started paying attention to so many lost dry-farmed vineyards, and actually started mourning them like a lost a friend. It’s approximately the same time I read an article in a national magazine about the US’s most polluted rivers and, to my horror, the Russian River was listed as the sixteenth most polluted river in the country. As a life-long fisherman, I recognized that the trend was no longer sustainable for uprooting these older vineyards, essentially wiping away years of vineyard growth that had become water independent, in exchange for new thirsty vineyards.

While dry farming is a way to mitigate the use of water in viticulture, another practice putting a heavy burden on our river is the use of water for frost protection – perhaps the return of “kerosene pots” in the vineyards as used in the past, to keep vineyards from freezing…

Mounting lawsuits aim to force the hand of Sonoma County’s water agencies which oversee the use of water for frost protection and pending laws are going to change the rules when it comes to farming. In the coming years and the loss of the ability to use water for frost protection, we’re certain to see price swings in wines from year to year.

Small family farmers will shoulder the biggest burden with new restrictions. I do acknowledge that answers are not simple, but just as we can all make a difference for our planet by changing light bulbs and driving less, our winegrowers have the ability to adapt to more sustainable practices – I hope more of them do.

John Haggard is owner of Sophie’s Cellars, The Sonoma Wine & Cheese Market in Monte Rio, California. Sophie’s Cellars is open 11am – 7pm, closed only on Wednesdays. www.sophiescellars.com

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WINE BANTER - John Haggard on Pairing Wines with Fish

Oftentimes people drop by with Recipes to my store, many of which are seafood, and as we begin to break down the different kinds of seafood, broth, vegetables and herbs, I to try to figure out whether a red wine is going to be appropriate. Recently, I received an article (The Economist) which answered a question I’d really never thought too much about: why are there so few red wines that can be paired with fish that don’t create a fishy after-taste? – and the answer is actually quite simple: wines with high levels of iron turn out to be the culprit. While it seemed obvious not to pair seafood with big red wines like Bordeaux varietals ( such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot, Petite Verdot,), or Zinfandels and Syrah, to name a few, it wasn’t obvious to me that perhaps it was a chemical component (iron) that may have been the reason (Journal of Agriculture and Food Chemistry).Thank you, Harvey Mendelson, for bringing this article among others to my attention.

While so many white wines (which I’ll go into later) may be paired with fish, I have often found that some pinot noirs make a great pairing with fish, if they are not heavily extracted – and it turns out these pinot noirs have little or no iron – some great examples being; Ferreira’s Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, Preston Estate 2007 (ret: $30-$35) or EMTU’s Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2006, from organically grown grapes (ret: $35), and am looking forward to the release of the Paul Mathew 2007 Ruxton Vineyard Pinot Noir which normally retails ($35-$40) as his past vintages of this vineyard designate pinot noir have been exceptional and versatile to pair with fish and many other dishes. All of these pinot noirs make great pairings for fish dishes from grilled salmon to paella. Remember when pairing any wine with a cream based sauce that may contain herbs and or aged cheeses such as a pecorino romano that it will most likely pair better with a red wine, such as the aforementioned pinot noirs rather than a white.

Some white clones of pinot pair wonderfully with fish: Pinot Gris, Pinot Grigio and Pinot Blanc. The Italian clone and its descendants all over the world being known as Pinot Grigio, typically (but not always) is harvested earlier and has a more steely, citric and mineral quality. The French clone, pinot gris, typically picked later, has a little more residual sugar, though still a dry wine, and creates a much rounder, softer quality and can be paired with seafood, and occasionally will have a mineral finish. I tend to find the Pinot Gris wines a little more elegant, perfect for pairing and sipping, whereas the Pinot Grigios more typically for pairing, but this is my palate, and I recommend you test your own. Pinot Blanc, yet another mutation of pinot, typically has a more floral quality to it, and once again, pairs well with some seafood items.

With Dungeness Crab Season in full swing, you can find some great white wines to pair from buttery Chardonnays; Hart’s Desire’s Carneros Chardonnay Ceja Vineyard 2008. (ret; $25) or Rielle’s Ritchie Vineyard Russian River Valley Chardonnay (ret: $30) to crisp dry Sauvignon Blancs.such as PKNT 2008 Sauvignon Blanc from Chile (ret; $7) – it’s really a matter of your own personal preference but they will all pair well with crab. On these cool crisp days, it’s well worth heading out to Bodega Bay and the Spud Point Crab Company: 1860 Westshore Road, Bodega Bay. Tel; 707-875-9472.

Moshin Vineyards gets a new winemaker: Mat Gustafson
Congratulations to winemaker, Mathew Gustafson in his move as winemaker for Moshin Vineyards. Mat has long produced some of my favorite pinot noirs under his own label Paul Mathew and Dutton Estate. Moshin Vineyards has a spectacular facility; gravity fed, custom crush, used by several small producers. I anticipate that there will be much to look forward to in the coming years from Moshin Vineyards.

John Haggard is owner of Sophie’s Cellars, The Sonoma Wine & Cheese Market in Monte Rio, California. Sophie’s Cellars is open 11am – 7pm, closed only on Wednesdays. www.sophiescellars.com

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Wine Banter - Port or Porto?

Port is a fortified wine, which simply means a wine that has been fortified with brandy or another distilled spirit and then aged. You will see so many designations including Porto, Ruby and Tawny, White Port, Colheita, L.B.V, and Vintage Port - what does it all mean?

Let’s begin with Ruby Porto as this is the most common port offered in restaurants. Like all ports, Ruby Porto is typically served at the end of the meal. It is also considered to be a lower tier port unless designated by a vintage. Ruby Portos are great pairings for chocolate desserts or simply paired with a cup of coffee, espresso or cappuccino.

Tawny Porto often shows a number signifying how many years the porto remained in the barrel before bottling. The younger the tawny, typically the spicier the flavor is from the oak barrels. One of my favorite tawnys, though not inexpensive, is the 30-Year Tawny – it nearly always has a caramel quality.

Colheita is very similar in flavor to some of the younger tawnys, however, it has a vintage date on the bottle which means all of the tawny in the bottle comes from one vintage. Colheitas typically do not get better with age, but remain relatively the same.

L.B.V. (Late Bottled Vintage) Porto will show a year on the bottle and can be similar to vintage ports though Vintage Ports only spend two years in the barrel and are only from vineyard designated years, whereas the L.B.V. will spend from four to six years in the barrel. L.B.V.s typically exhibit flavors of red and or black fruit and, like a Ruby Porto, can be paired with chocolates and / or coffee.

Vintage Ports are typically declared only about three times per decade when the perfect conditions in Portugal have produced grapes worthy of vintage designation. Vintage Port will age for decades (in the bottle), provided temperatures are not fluctuating – the perfect temperature being 58 fahrenheit.

Ports are made from many varietals of grapes – Bual (pronounced “Bo-All”), for example, has a distinct citrusy quality – the younger the Bual, the spicier the Bual – which is derived from the barrels. However, as Buals are aged in barrels for longer periods of time, they begin to get more of a creamy buttery softness on the palate while still maintaining the beautiful citrus quality. If you see “Bual” on the label, it must be at least 78% Bual. The younger Buals, with their spicy quality are particularly good with desserts such as Bread Puddings – whereas an older Bual works well paired with a Crème Brulee – especially vanilla bean.

How long will port last once opened?

Tawny Ports and Colheitas are typically oxidized – due to the fact that they spend long periods in the barrel – and the barrels are being topped up, so as evaporation and saturation of barrels takes place, sometimes referred to as the “angel’s share” the barrels have to be topped up to keep the port from spoiling from over-exposure to oxygen. This means that they have already been exposed to oxygen, and can be left on the counter for months at a time after opening
Once opened, Vintage Ports have a much shorter life. One way to extend the life of a vintage port upon opening is to decant gently so as to separate the port from the sediment (leaving the sediment in the bottle). Once decanted, rinse the bottle three times in warm water – and then leave upside down for a about forty-five minutes allowing the moisture to drain out. Then, using a funnel, return the vintage port to the bottle, without the sediment and put its cork back in. The port should now last for seven to ten days on the counter.

In the onset of Winter and the holidays, port makes a great pairing for so many desserts, cheese plates and the like. Then there is the best pairing of all: good friends, conversation, a warm fireplace and a glass of port at the end of an evening.

John Haggard is owner of Sophie’s Cellars, The Sonoma Wine & Cheese Market in Monte Rio, California. Sophie’s Cellars is open 11am – 7pm, closed only on Wednesdays. www.sophiescellars.com

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Sonoma County Wine

Where there’s smoke

More times than not it’s the toast on the barrel and, occasionally, the varietal of the grape that produces a smokey quality. In 2008 Northern California as well as Central & Southern California experienced numerous fires and depending on where the vineyard was located, there may or may not have been smoke damage. Grape growers, vineyard managers and winemakers jointly worked to identify the vineyards that were smoke damaged, however, the proof is in the wine – ie, after fermentation, some winemakers found smoke damage to be too pervasive for bottling and decided to bulk-sell the wine (ie their grapes will be blended with other wines and sometime other varietals to create an inexpensive every day wine). In some cases, smoke actually enhanced the flavor of the wine depending on how neutral the barrels used were and how the grapegrower, vineyard manager and winemaker worked with the vineyard to produce the final wine. Let’s revisit this subject next year, however, I have found 2008 to be actually quite elegant, oftentimes the smoke has been beneficial, creating another layer and element to the wine that I find to be quite enjoyable. Let your palate be the judge.

Thanksgiving Again!

Riesling and pinot noir are two varietals that are really complimentary to a Thanksgiving Dinner. Riesling, with a light demi-sec or slight residual sugar provides a subtle sweetness that pairs well with squash or carrot soup and even dessert, such as pumpkin pie. Pinot Noir, being so versatile, carefully selected, will work with everything from turkey to goose and lamb. This year’s Riesling release from Ventana (the 2008), retailing at $12, has much less mineral finish than the previous vintage and is a great complement to turkey.

A great value Pinot Noir is the River Road Reserve 2008 (retailing at $18) – with sharp red fruit, and generous spice on the palate, this is a great complement, once again, to a Thanksgiving Dinner – turkey, goose, and possibly ham, however I wouldn’t pair this up with lamb. Another Russian River Pinot Noir that is perfect for Thanksgiving is the Davenport 2005. 100% Dijon 115 clone. Retailing at $35, this pinot noir will work across palates from turkey to lamb – the perfect pairing, though this is a small production and not much around.

With the cooler weather, rosés have suddenly fallen out of favor, however Rosé D’Anjou (France) is a lovely sipping rosé of pinot noir and works very well with Thanksgiving Dinner, retailing at only $10 it’s a great value. For the chardonnay lover, - Balletto’s Teresa’s 2008 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley) is 100% stainless steel and 100% inoculated which provides that “buttery quality” that some people like and a nice racy acidity that will complement most rich turkey dinners (retailing $15).

For those who like to celebrate the holidays with Champagne, Louis Roederer Brut Premier now retails under $50 and has nice cracked wheat, easy flavors, baked apple - an elegant edition to any dinner, birthday, and upcoming holidays.

Carol Shelton’s 2008 “Sweet Caroline” made from the organic Fanucchi vineyard on Wood Road in the Russian River Valley is a late harvest trousseau gris and a terrific pairing for desserts such as apple tatin, apple pie, and, my favorite, aged goats milk cheese. It will also work very well with a starting course of butternut squash soup. The wine has a slight effervescence (infused by the winemaker). There are delicious stone fruit flavors of nectarine and white peach, also a demi-sec (retail $15, 375ml).

Those of us who are looking towards having gamey or red meats and would like to look at great value red wines – here are just a few, exceptionally good in their price point – PKNT Carmenere, Chile, dry and spicy ($7), Tierra Brisa Malbec 2008, Argentina ($7), will work really well with red meats or gamey cuisine. Puerto Viejo Malbec 2008, Argentina: dark, rich and uncharacteristic of a 100% malbec. Although big on the palate, very smooth; an exceptionally good sipping wine and outstanding with roast vegetables, roast turkey, roast meats - at $9 one of the best value malbecs I’ve tasted in a decade.

Wishing you all a Happy and safe Thanksgiving!

John Haggard is owner of Sophie’s Cellars, The Sonoma Wine & Cheese Market in Monte Rio, California. Sophie’s Cellars is open 11am – 7pm, closed only on Wednesdays. www.sophiescellars.com

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WINE REVIEW: John Haggard on Decanting

To Decant or Not to Decant…

A decanter is designed with a wide base and thin neck for two reasons: to expose the wine to air and, when poured, to allow the wine to flow more easily and the sediment to remain in the base of the decanter. It was the Romans who came up with the idea of using glass for decanters, so you could say the track record for glass decanters is rather long. It seems obvious why one may not want sediment in the glass, but why more air?

Winemaker Fred Scherrer explained to me that red wines are a series of sharps and rounds. In my experience, the sharper flavors tend to be red fruit and can be described as “strawberry, raspberry, pomegranate, red cherry” and the rounds tend to be black fruit flavors “blackberry, blueberry, black plum, black cherry”. Sharper red fruit flavors tend to soften after decanting as do tannins caused by oak barrels and numerous other factors used to create complexity in wine but which become more subtle over time or with proper decanting, bringing wine into balance.

Many winemakers structure red wine to be able to both age and, indeed, improve with age. Bordeaux varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon may be made to age decades: Ramey Jericho Canyon Vineyard 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, is a highly collectable wine that will age for ten years or more (ret: $125). Some burgundies (pinot noirs) will age five to ten years. Ross Cobb of Cobb Wines structures all his pinot noirs to be aged. Cobb Wines (as many wineries do) releases “Library Wines” to its members list, so that older vintages may be appreciated. Zinfandel will usually have a shorter life (perhaps three to five years). 2007 has been a stellar year across the board for Sonoma Wines. In my opinion, Balletto’s 2007 Pinot Noir (retailing $20-$25) is one of their best. It has structure that will age, and will benefit from decanting about an hour if opened now. Decanting accelerates the aging process. It allows wine to display more of the characteristics that it would have displayed some years hence. Occasionally, when opening a wine in a restaurant that I know to be particularly youthful, I will ask the server to not only decant the wine, but to “shock it”. Simply put, “to glug” the wine into the decanter by turning the bottle almost upside down while pouring, allowing a fast pour and more air bubbles to form.

Try for Yourself…
When entertaining, I will often pour my red wines into decanters as I start to prepare the meal. The chef does deserve a small taste of the wine as the bottle is opened, both to determine that the wine is not bad (or corked) and to truly experience the wine as it opens from the first glass, and later, at the meal when poured from the decanter. Putting this into practice will allow you to educate your own palate as to which wines truly benefit from decanting.

Decanting Calculator?
While there is no Iphone App for this yet (though it may be worth someone‚s time)… a rough calculation that doesn’t work in all cases, but may be helpful: upon release, for each year that is recommended to age a wine, up to an hour of decanting may be necessary to open the wine today. A wine said to be at its best four years from now upon release, may need decanting two to four hours. However, two years from now, it may only need thirty minutes of decanting (you’ll find wines with age need less decanting time and do not need to be ”shocked“).

What to use?
A glass pitcher will suffice to aerate wine if you don‚t have a decanter handy (though they are not shaped to hold back sediment). Decanters make great gifts for anyone who enjoys wine. Support your local Sonoma wine stores by checking with them for decanters: Vine Life, Wine Tasting Sonoma, Gourmet Au Bay, The Wine Emporium, Sonoma Fine Wine, Vine & Barrel and Sophie’s Cellars. Or – go to the wine store near you and let us know who – and where – they are!

John Haggard is owner of Sophie’s Cellars, The Sonoma Wine & Cheese Market in Monte Rio, California. Sophie’s Cellars is open 11am - 7pm, closed only on Wednesdays. www.sophiescellars.com

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WINE BANTER: John Haggard of Sophies Cellars Jul7 2009

Don’t judge a bottle by its cap…
By John Haggard

More and more, you may have noticed screw caps on your wine bottles. There are a lot of differing opinions and ideas about how a bottle should be presented and what is best to protect and preserve wine, but the use of cork in wine bottles, which goes back to the mid-1600’s is one that is hard to break. In my twenty years of fine dining service, the presentation of the bottle to the guest, the cutting of the foil and the removal of the cork is an intrinsic part of the pleasurable experience of enjoying wine with a meal because of its tradition as much as its necessity.
Let’s start with the basics: what choices are there for sealing a bottle of wine? There are three methods currently in use: traditional cork, synthetic corks (made from plastics) and screw caps.

Synthetic corks currently have the worst seal (in order to enable them to be removed). Wines exposed to air will not age. If you purchase a wine with a synthetic cork, be sure that you will be consuming it within a year or two. Synthetic corks are mostly used today on inexpensive wines.
Then there’s traditional cork. Cork is a renewable resource, and is biodegradable. A good cork, which is probably 90 – 95% of all corks, may allow a wine to age thirty years or more. But how many wines are made to age for thirty years, and how many wine buyers are prepared to wait that long on the ones that are? There is cork failure in 5-10% of wines, sometimes due to TCA, a fungus that invades the cork fibers and creates a musty smell: such tainted bottles of wine are said to be “corked”.

Screw caps do provide an excellent seal, and many tests show that wines can be aged in them. However, there are some experts who believe a tiny amount of air that a traditional cork allows into a bottle over time may actually help the aging process.

I am seeing more and more high-end wines appear with screw caps. I must admit to being one of the early skeptics, but, in my experience, it’s more a matter of great winemakers taking the screw-cap on board. I have certainly tasted some great wines in a screw cap bottle, including, most recently, the Inman Pinot Noirs (Olivet Grange and Thorn Road), 2006 Russian River Pinot Noirs retailing at $50-$60 and the Inman Rose retailing at $25-$30.

New Wine Map
We have many great wine maps in Sonoma County – there is the Wine Road wine map and the Russian River Valley Winegrowers map. Steppin’ Out Magazine does a great job of combining Sonoma / Napa / Mendocino and other Northern California wine regions in a nice glossy magazine. The new 101 Things To Do Magazine is all over Sonoma County and the wine maps are accurate. The large print makes them easy to read and there is lots of information for your friends or guests who are not familiar with Sonoma – it’s also free, as are all the aforementioned maps.

Gamay Noir Time
Perhaps, just like the much anticipated Beaujolais Nouveau from France each year (which is a Gamay) – it’s time for Paul Mathew’s new vintage of Gamay Noir. I wrote about the 2007 last year – and I think his 2008 is even better. A complex wine with herbaceous dark fruit flavors with hints of spice and bubblegum… best served cool but not cold. It is being poured by the glass at our fabulous new Boon Restaurant in Guerneville, and is available at Sophie’s Cellars (retail price $16.99). Very limited production.

Cazadero Wine Tasting
If you’re in the Russian River area on Saturday July 18th, check out the Cazadero Wine Tasting Event at CazSonoma Lodge. Proceeds benefit the Cazadero Community Club. There are some great winemakers on the ridges from Cazadero to the Sonoma Coast and they have been quite generous in supporting this event. Advanced tickets are available at Sophie’s Cellars in Monte Rio ($30). For more information, call 707-632-5255.

John Haggard is owner of Sophie’s Cellars, The Sonoma Wine & Cheese Market in Monte Rio, California. Sophie’s Cellars is open 11am – 7pm, closed only on Wednesdays. www.sophiescellars.com

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WINE BANTER - Value Wine - By John Haggard

Finding a Value Wine You Can Afford

As an owner of a wine store during a recession, I have noticed that we now sell twenty wines under $10 as opposed to just two four years ago. There is a huge demand for every day wines, no doubt because of the current economy.

First of all, what is value? To me, there are two key elements that make a value wine (one of them is often lacking): price, AND quality. It’s very easy to find inexpensive wines. The task, is to find inexpensive quality wines, and that makes a “value wine”.

How are some wineries able to produce a quality wine at, say, $9.99, and another, not less than $49.99. Well, there are the usual supply and demand factors involved, mixed with some regional factors. In Sonoma, for example, there are the costs of doing business in California, tied with real estate costs making the average bottle start out significantly higher than its counterpart in, say, France, Spain or Portugal, where many families may have owned the land for centuries (usually the mortgage is paid off by now…) and bottling costs and other costs associated with producing wine are significantly lower as there are rather less government restrictions on producing wine where it has been done for so long.

I am the first to always try and buy local, but it has been my experience that finding value wines from Sonoma is a task, but well worth the effort to find them. By definition, most of Sonoma’s wineries are small production and it takes large production to get lower costs. There are some you will find at supermarkets (Chateaux St. Jean chardonnay), and, of course, the Russian River’s own Korbel produces quality sparkling wines that are readily available just about anywhere. White wines are less expensive than reds on average. Bohemian Highway (actually bottling in Napa), produces some whites that are really exceptional for the price – from their Chardonnay which is lightly oaked to their Pinot Grigio or Sauvignon Blanc, all retailing at about $8.99. They make a selection of reds too, but I have found their quality is consistently better on their white wines. Balletto produces a range of quality local wines that are relatively inexpensive. Their pinot gris, ($12+), has soft round fruit flavors and is a delicious sipping wine which can be paired with lighter fair such as Caesar salad, white fish and poultry. Their 2007 pinot noir, which is one of the best vintages I’ve tasted of their pinot noirs ($20-25), though youthful, will age well and can be opened now if decanted for a minimum of thirty minutes. The Balletto Zinfandel from 2006 ($19+ retail) has great structure, red and black fruit and isn’t your typical barbeque wine in this price point, and their Syrah from 2006 ($20-$25) stands up to many $40 syrahs.

Some local wineries are producing great blends. Sapphire Hill’s “The Harlot” is a blend of Russian River Zinfandel and Syrah, a big, robust, red-fruit filled dry red wine with ample new French Oak delivering a vanilla spice to the wine ($18+). Malm Cellars of Sonoma makes a “Cross-Blend” of Sonoma County Syrah and Cabernet which is broad but not tannic on the palate. Spicy red fruit, hints of vanilla, with a long finish, pairing well with foods such as a grilled rare flank steak ($18+).

Portugal and Spain produce some wonderful value wines and are easy to find locally in Sonoma. I find the tempranillo’s from Spain to be great food wines. Tempranillo is a red grape varietal and one of the top selling red table wines from Spain. The Douro and Dao regions of Northern Portugal produce excellent red value wines, many retailing under $10 here, great for sipping or pairing with food. These red wines are often soft-tannined wines with subtle mineral notes and low alcohol.

Bulk buying will bring the price down of your wine purchases. We offer mixed case discounts as do many retail stores. Wineries will offer you further discounts if you join their wine clubs. Shop local, shop around.

John Haggard is owner of Sophie’s Cellars, The Sonoma Wine & Cheese Market in Monte Rio, California. Sophie’s Cellars is open 11am – 7pm, closed only on Wednesdays. www.sophiescellars.com

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WINE BANTER - Celebrity Wine Wizards

Dick Starr explores the realm of celebrities in the California wine industry.

California’s Political Wine Patron

I would like to extend a note of appreciation to State Senator Pat Wiggins who chairs the Senate Select Committee on California Wine Industry and has initiated and supported legislation to assist California wine growers and producers. Pat, an enthusiastic supporter of California’s wine industry, is a product of an audaciously intrepid family; her father was the stuntman for the wing walking maneuvers in The Great Waldo Pepper and her mother, like Pat, was an accomplished parachutist. In rare but prized respites, Pat enjoys a dollop of her favorite varietal, Pinot Noir.

Celebrity Wine Wizards

In addition to Dan Aykroyd’s varietals that I reviewed last month, wine world is expanding exponentially with celebrity bon vivants who want to broadcast an urbane lifestyle. Up 20% in grocery store sales since last year and accounting for 1% of total wine sales, it has become an increasing challenge to identify a celebrity gourmand that hasn’t sanctioned a tailored grape. Many have actually cultivated an authentic master’s tasting palate. Just to dash off a few of these famed wine pundits and wanna-be oenophiles– living and posthumously – who have had one or more grape-tinged body parts:

The Rolling Stones, Kiss, Celine Dion, Pink Floyd, Barbara Streisand, Madonna, Jerry Garcia, House Speaker Nancy Pelosi, Joe Montana, Santana, British Soccer Star David Beckham, Porn Star Savanna Samson, Vince Neil (Vince Vineyards), Fred Mac Murray (Mac Murray Ranch), former NFL coach Mike Ditka (Mendocino Wine Co.), director Francis Ford Coppola (wineries in Napa County and Geyserville – pass on daughter Sofia’s canned sparkling wine), pro-golfer Greg Norman (Greg Norman Estates), former inmate Martha Stewart (E. & J. Gallo), Paul Newman (Trinchero Family Estates), French actor Gerard Depardieu (Gerard Depardieu Winery), Elvis Presley (Blue Suede Shoes Chardonnay by Graceland Cellars), Marilyn Monroe (Flagship is Marilyn Merlot by Nova Wines), auto racing icon Mario Andretti (Mario Andretti Winery), Olympic skating gold medalist Peggy Fleming (Fleming Jenkins Vineyards & Winery), Sopranos’ psychiatrist Lorraine Bracco (Bracco Wines), Raymond Burr (Raymond Burr Vineyards in Dry Creek), Kenwood resident Tommy Smothers (Remick Ridge Vineyards – take a pass if your looking for potable wine), Fleetwood Mac founding member Mick Fleetwood (Mick Fleetwood Private Cellar), Olivia Newton John (Koala Blue Wines), Sting (II Talagio’s Vineyards in the Chianti region to be released about 2010), and Bob Dylan (Planet Waves by Fattoria Le Terrazze).

Ledson’s anachronistic winery – an architecturally Gothic nightmare that defies any amicable appropriateness to Sonoma Valley – offered a Jeff Bridges meritage to sell for somewhere in the low three figures. The buyer was expected to purchase for the celeb name only since no tasting was offered. This is a good example of no pretense to quality or lack of it, just another luminary name.

Cheers!

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World-Class Winery - Freestone Vineyards

World-Class Winery comes to the Bohemian Highway

Many great winemakers have for some years been producing world-class wines from vineyards surrounding the hills of the Bohemian Highway near Freestone and Occidental including Cobb Wines, Paul Mathew, Sonoma Coast Vineyards, and Bohemian Vineyards to name but a few, but Freestone Vineyards is the first to open a winery and guest center off the Bohemian Highway allowing us to taste, right here, at home.

In 1999, Joe Phelps (owner and founder of the prestigious Joseph Phelps winery in Napa), with his son Bill, purchased 80 acres of pinot noir and 20 acres of chardonnay in Freestone, California. With a commitment to sustaining the integrity of the environment, the new Freestone Vineyards winery was built into the hillside to reduce both its volume and footprint. The winery employs organic and biodynamic farming methods. The state-of-the-art three story facility uses the force of gravity to move wine from fermenters to barrels, avoiding pumps that adjust temperature and quality also using less energy to produce wine. The wines are unfined, unfiltered, and the goal is to create wines representative of the rugged coastal region where Freestone is located, I think they have succeeded, right from their first vintage.

Freestone Vineyards wines are not widely available yet, not in restaurants or even boutique wine stores (I don’t carry them at Sophie’s Cellars yet…). I did have the good fortune to taste a selection from the Freestone Vineyard’s first releases. After tasting the rosé of pinot noir, the chardonnay and the pinot noirs, I really felt that all of the wines were exceptional in quality. However, the Freestone Vineyards Pinot Noir stood out as a superbly elegant-styled, though slightly spicy food wine. The Fogdog Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays are relatively inexpensive for quality pinot noir and chardonnay (retailing $35-$40 at the Guest Center). The Freestone Pinot Noir retails at $75 and garnered 90pts from Wine Spectator. The Freestone Vineyards Guest Center is another wonderful reason to explore our Bohemian Highway joining Freestone, Occidental and Monte Rio, the beauty of which is being discovered by tourists, or, of course, known by locals as the quick way down to San Francisco once Santa Rosa grinds to a halt. The footprint for visitors to Freestone Vineyards is kept minimal as the winery is private and there are no public tours, but Freestone wines may be tasted at the renovated Guest Center facility located at the corner of Bodega Highway and Bohemian Highways in Freestone, currently open for visitors Friday, Saturday & Sunday from 11:00 am – 5:00 pm. No appointment is necessary. Groups of six or more are encouraged to call ahead (www.freestonevineyards.com). Check out www.bohemianconnection.com for more information on The Bohemian Highway.

Wine for Thanksgiving Dinner
It is that time of year again, and I am so often asked to pick wines for Thanksgiving Dinner. It’s a particularly fun time for me as Sophie’s Cellars is only closed on Wednesday, with the exception of Thanksgiving when we close both Wednesday and Thursday… I’m travelling to the Bay Area and am most definitely bringing with me my Harvest Moon Dry Gewurztraminer from 2007 (Russian River Valley), retailing at $24.99 and Ventana Riesling 2007 from Monterey, retailing at $11.99. Both are a perfect complement to a turkey dinner surrounded by the rich accoutrements found at so many T-day dinners. The Riesling, with a demi-sec (light sweet) works well with many spicy foods too. If you’re not sure what is being served, try taking a versatile pinot noir to dinner such as David Noyes Pinot Noir from Sonoma County (retailing at $24.99), it is subtle and complex, with aromas of black cherry, cinnamon and clove. The palate is filled with earthy forest floor and wild mushroom flavors and finishes with toasted oak. It’s a versatile pinot noir - a delicious sipper or a pairing for poultry, fish and some grilled meat dishes. If you’re heading out of Sonoma County, our local wines are always a crowd pleaser.

John Haggard is owner of Sophie’s Cellars, The Sonoma Wine & Cheese Market in Monte Rio, California. Sophie’s Cellars is open 11am – 7pm, closed only on Wednesdays. www.sophiescellars.com

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Coppola’s Rosso & Bianco Winery

Dick Starr takes us on journeys to wineries, tasting rooms, restaurants…anywhere he can chase down a good bottle of wine and tell us all about the story behind the wine and winery and the pleasure of drinking fine wine. This month we learn about Francis Ford Coppola’s other passion…wine.

Coppola’s Rosso & Bianco Winery
– a future family affair

Two years ago, I bemoaned Francis Ford Coppola’s failure to muster his vast resources and assign his Apocalypse Now special effects gurus to tame the elements – a driving, drenching rain, the wettest storm of 2006 – during his 67th birthday celebration. The event was held under mammoth outdoor tents with a mammoth cake on his newly purchased Sonoma County winery – formerly the Chateau Souverain – in Geyserville. Souverain moved into Italian Swiss Colony’s former location in Asti.

During a recent visit – my second – to Coppola’s Geyserville wine digs, now named Rosso & Bianco Winery (Italian for red & white), it was a dry, balmy and delightful day providing a pleasant respite from the birthday soaking. Prior to an al fresco harvest luncheon, a hand full of us took a guided hard hat tour of the new facilities.

It is important to understand that the conceptual engine driving this project is first and foremost the family. As Coppola observed, “When I make a movie, I always have a theme. Sonoma’s theme is ‘life.’ Life with a joyous, Italian family feeling.”


The first phase, due to open by early summer next year, will encompass a guest entrance building and tasting room (the original one was named as one of America’s top 25 tasting rooms by the Wine Enthusiastic Magazine). Also planned is a kitchen upgrade, a new 70 seating indoor restaurant and an outdoor grill and terrace seating 90 where lunch, dinner and brunch will be offered. A 150 seating band shell designed for community events, the arts, and family oriented entertainment is planned as well as a Bocce Court.

Lastly, and perhaps most significant with film buffs, a movie memorabilia museum will be under the cover of a two tiered pyramid. Included will be paraphernalia from The Godfather trilogy, Apocalypse Now, and the 1948 Tucker automobile that was used in the movie by that name which will be on a rotating dais. The twin pyramid roofs will be made out of an extraordinary museum-quality material: Kalwall is a structural composite sandwich that captures and controls natural daylight to provide the ultimate in energy efficiency. It was announced that the newly restored Godfather films that Coppola had been extensively laboring on were just released on DVD and Blue Ray.

Phase two, planned for a 2010 completion, will be a large H shaped swimming pool framed by cabanas for rent. By the conclusion of phase two, Coppola hopes to make Rosso & Bianco a world class destination for families.

After our tour, we were escorted to a view enhanced terrace for a lunch of pizzas, grilled lamb loin chops, grilled Italian sausages, roasted veggies and cannoli. Fortunate for me, I was seated next to Coppola’s personable winemaker Corey Beck who had created the nectar for our luncheon pairing: a Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Viognier, Alicante Bouschet, Zin, Syrah, and a Cab Sauvignon. Given the rare and prized grape gene (a family steeped in wine lore) and armed with a fermentation science degree, Corey came to Rosso & Bianco from Coppola’s Napa winery, Rubicon Estate.

Of the wines presented, the three for me that deserve extra merit are the Reserve Cab Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, Sam’s Vineyard 2006 for $45; the Director’s Cut Zin, Dry Creek Valley, 2006 for $23 (both the Cab and Zin won gold at this year’s Harvest Fair); and the Diamond Collection Magenta Label Alicante Bouschet 2007.

Alicante Bouschet

An exceptional stand-out for me was the Bouschet, especially the attractive price of only $16. This is one of the very few red varietals that the grape flesh is red giving it a red intensity of an almost indigo hue when enhanced with the skin. Its inception was the result of a French father and son. Louis Bouschet, the father, crossed Aramon with Teinturier du Cher, naming the result Petit Bouschet in 1824. The son, Henri, crossed Petite Bouschet with Grenache to create Alicante Bouschet in 1865. With a high yield and easy maintenance, it became popular among French wine growers, especially in Bordeaux, Burgundy and the Loire Valley. It was also grown in southern Italy and became popular among Italian immigrants winemakers during Prohibition. Plantings in California reached nearly 30,000 acres by the 1940s, but have since declined to less than 5,000 acres.

The grape was used by Coppola’s grandfather Agostino, a home winemaker, so he asked Corey Beck to scout for Bouchet vineyards. From 85 year old vines located in the central valley, Corey crafted a soft, medium bodied wine with savory flavors of blackcurrant, plum, dark fruit and spice. This Diamond Collection Magenta Label Calicante Bouschet 2007 was a friendly pairing with our pizzas, sausages and absolutely yummy with the lamb. Additionally, I’m sure it would embolden pasta and meat dishes.

The tasting room is open daily at 11am and is located just off of Independence exit from Hwy. 101. The winery can be reached at (707) 857-1400.
Cheers!

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Expand Your Varietal Horizons

John Haggard is on-hand once more to fill in for Dick Starr during his absence. Dick will be back in the September 2008 issue. We are lucky to have such a knowledgeable wine writer so close at hand and so willing to help.


Expand Your Varietal Horizons

I am the first one to fall into the trap of loving a varietal. Surrounded by some of the best pinot noir in the country, I carry sixty to eighty of them in my store. You may find yourself to be a pinot-file or, perhaps, having a preference for cabernet, but California’s winemakers have so much more to offer.

Barb Gustafson (Matt Gustafson’ wife, the winemaker for Paul Mathew) persuaded me to taste the Paul Mathew Gamay Noir 2007, from Knights Valley (Sonoma County). Matt is known for his pinot noirs, indeed is about to be profiled by Wine Spectator for his expertise in expressing the flavors in the clonal varietals of pinot noir such as Russian River Valley’s Ruxton Vineyard… but I digress, his Gamay Noir is outstanding. Traditionally served lightly chilled (although a red wine), this Gamay Noir needs only be brought to cellar temperature – which can be done by placing in a refrigerator for just fifteen minutes. The Paul Mathew Gamay Noir is a dusty, black stone-fruit filled sipping wine which finishes with flavors of bubblegum (yes, I said bubblegum) and hints of fennel, retail price $16.99.

Once widely found, French Colombard has been ripped out of California’s vineyards for more profitable varietals, thankfully, some has survived. Nikolai Stez, the winemaker for Woodenhead, knew he had something special and wanted to make a dry white wine crafted for another love of his, oysters. He has indeed achieved his goal. The Woodenhead 2007 Russian River Valley French Colombard is a perfect pairing for the Hog Island Oysters found locally in Tomales Bay. With creamy citric lime and lemon flavors, and minerality mid-palate, this French Colombard would also make a great pairing for Pacific Coast Abalone. Woodenhead has a new tasting room at 5700 River Road, though they may be a touch taken-a-back if you say you were drawn there by his French Colombard rather than his more sort-after pinot noirs and zinfandels (I certainly recommend you try everything they let you taste at Woodenhead). Woodenhead’s French Colombard retails at $17.99, but why not go to Mosaic Restaurant in Forestville, now serving lunch and dinner 7 days a week in their beautiful hidden garden oasis where you will find it placed on Tai Olesky’s well-rounded wine menu.

Grenache is certainly not an uncommon varietal to the French – it is the dominant grape used in many Rhône wines, famously Châteauneuf-du-Pape. In California, however, it is much harder to find. Quivira has made an exquisite example of a Rosé of Grenache in 2007 from their estate in Dry Creek Valley in Sonoma. Quivira wins my praise before even tasting their wine because of its organic farming, commitment to solar power and restoration of Wine Creek as a fish-friendly habitat. Their dry Rosé of Grenache has nice tart red fruit flavors of strawberry and cherry, with watermelon and green papaya - a versatile food wine, making a great pairing for caesar salad with either prawns or grilled chicken, retail price $19.99.

Dornfelder was definitely not a varietal on my radar screen until just a month ago when I had the good fortune to taste a 2005 Dornfelder from Huber Estate in Santa Barbara County. While more common in Germany, this distinctive varietal produces a dark, inky red wine in your glass filled with blueberry, not a tannic wine but dry, full-palate, blueberry - a great robust sipping wine, retailing at $25.99.

A favorite of mine for the last two vintages, is Carol Shelton’s Late Harvest Trousseau Gris. The current vintage is 2007 and retails for $15.99 (375ml). A demi-sec (light-sweet) this wine pairs beautifully with aged goat cheeses, such as Redwood Hill Farm’s Bucheret from Sebastopol. The wine is filled with stone fruit flavors of nectarine and white peach with a subtle effervessence. The Trousseau Gris vineyard is off Wood Road in the Russian River Valley. The vineyard is approaching sixty years of age and farmed about as organically as it gets by Peter Fanucchi, testament to this was the hidden bird nest I found amongst the vines on my last visit to the vineyard with Carol Shelton.

John Haggard is owner of Sophie’s Cellars, The Sonoma Wine & Cheese Market in Monte Rio, California. Sophie’s Cellars is open 11am – 7pm, closed only on Wednesdays. www.sophiescellars.com

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A Wine Junket through West Sonoma County

Dick Starr takes us on a wine retail/tasting room drive through the hills and towns of Sonoma County, including: Healdsburg, Sebastopol, Monte Rio, Occidental, Duncans Mills and Bodega Bay. This column was part of the 2007 Annual Small Town Shopping Tour, published every November in the West County Gazette and designed to get holiday shoppers out into our towns where we can support our local economy and our neighbors. In the November 2008 edition, we'll have more shopping adventures, people to meet and places to learn about in this lovely place we call home…Sonoma County.

A Wine Junket

by dick starr

Sonoma’s West and North County presents a rich selection of wine retailers for those that seek an array of domestic and international wines to choose from. On hand, at least with the retailers that I’m reviewing, is an informed mentor to channel you through the labyrinth of juices, accouterments, and pairing suggestions.

Why visit a wine specialty shop in lieu of a winery? Actually, I support the patronage of both wine sources, but a significant advantage to shop at a specialized retailer is personalized service (anyone that has been to a crowded winery’s tasting room can appreciate that) and to glean information on a wide range of relevant wine and wineries based on your taste, pocketbook, and occasion. Additionally, if the retailer is worth his or her salt, will be the propensity to keep you informed on future wines based on your personal interest.

For those of you that want a piece of Carmel without having to drive south for four hours, just amble up to the Healdsburg square with its vibrant, eclectic, and esoteric shops alive with art, food, jazz, crafts, nouveau boutiques, and the ambiance of wine weaving throughout the amalgamate. Of special interest is the Healdsburg Jazz Festival, a Café Jazz Series at the Palette Art Café throughout November. And, at www.winerywalk.com, you’ll find a walking tour of the wineries and artisan food producers downtown.

Healdsburg
The Wine Shop

One wine retailer of import is the Wine Shop on the square. Manager and wine buyer Pedro Rusk and assistant manager Mark Friedrich confidentially hold the reins to guide patrons through a wide range of local and international wines. A grape repartee is established over a flight of tastes for $10. If you want to peruse an extraordinary selection of Pinot Noir, this is the place. The Wine Shop is located at 331 Healdsburg Avenue on the square.

Sebastopol
The Wine Emporium

Meandering southwest of Healdsburg, our first stop is The Wine Emporium located at 125 North Main Street in the heart of downtown Sebastopol. Ever since its inception in February 2006, owner, James Haug, has endeavored to provide an accommodating milieu for tasting and consulting as well as general information about the region. Like a personalized dating service, James, or a member of his staff, will match you with an affectionate and adoring grape that will adorn any occasion. About four dozen wines are available for tasting with prices starting at $1.50 per ounce. The store’s fine art gallery is currently featuring art by Jose Maro Alvarado. The Emporium is open noon to 6pm Wednesday through Sunday and by special appointment. www.the-wine-emporium-store.com

Monte Rio
Sophie’s Cellars

Four miles west of Guerneville is California’s original “Vacation Wonderland,” harking back to the days when big bands played to thousands at Monte Rio’s famous outdoor dance pavilions. John Haggard brought 25 years of food and wine experience with him when he opened Sophie’s Cellars in June 2005. He has maintained a viable and visible source of Russian River wine energy. John provides an extensive collection of hard-to-find limited production wines. About 75% of his wine inventory is local with almost two dozen available exclusive outside of restaurants. There are about 40 imports with Italy gaining ground. About half of the 80 cheeses are local with an emphasis on goat cheese. Also available are freshly baked breads and pies as well as chocolates, olive oils, and vinegars. Sophie’s Cellars is open from 11am to 7pm and closed Wednesdays.
www.sophiescellars.com


Occidental

Sonoma Fine Wine

Heading south on Bohemian Highway from Monte Rio along the same latitude is the charming former logging village of Occidental. Sonoma Fine Wine is located in historical digs in the hub of downtown, 3625 Main Street. Like the Wine Emporium, owner Benjamynn Gabriel, considers the nub of his service to customers to be wine consulting. He utilizes a state-of-the-art database software that allows the tracking of personal preferences and ordering history. The shop will feature artist Dee Andreini at an art opening November 30 from 4pm to 8pm. Heintz Wines will be pouring their Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. www.sonomafinewine.com

Duncans Mills

Wine Tasting of Sonoma County

Returning to Highway 116, 7 miles west of Guerneville, minutes west of Monte Rio, and 3 miles east of the ocean is another former logging community, Duncan Mills, where the population has recently exploded from 20 to a teeming 85. If not a destination, this should be a must-stop for west as well as east bound trekkers. The historic railroad depot gives resonance to a time in the 1870s when a group of San Francisco journalists and artists gave birth to the Bohemian Club that started using this area for their summer encampment.

Among the unique mélange of specialty shops, restaurants and galleries is Wine Tasting of Sonoma County under the new (about a year) sway of Prairie Silva. Once located on Pig Alley on the south side of town, Duncan Mills’ oldest building, dating from the early 1870s, was moved to its present location where Prairie pours and discusses the fruit-of-the-vine with both locals and tourists over a Sonoma Sampler consisting of five tastes for $5. It might be an extension from her previous activity, that of catering manager for rock & roll groups like the Eagles, but where food is concerned, wine follows. Friday evenings from 6pm to 8pm is a good time to visit when a full glass of wine is served for a $1 off of regular price. Regular hours of operation are 11 am to 6pm weekdays, noon to 6pm on weekends, and closed on Tuesdays. (New Owners in 2008 - just as delightful) www.winetastingsonoma.com
Bodega Bay

Continuing west three miles to the ocean and south on the famed coastal highway 1 for 16 miles or about 25 minutes, is the ocean community of Bodega Bay. As most of us already know, Alfred Hitchcock facilitated visibility of Bodega and Bodega Bay as a consequence of his film, “The Birds” released in 1963 after taking three years to complete. Politely cutting me short on the subject in an interview I had with the film’s star, Tippi Hedren, about six years ago at the Sarasota Film Festival, she was totally focused on Shambala which she and her daughter Melanie Griffith support. Shambala is a refuge that she supports for endangered species that were born in captivity and abandoned or retired from circuses or exceeded homeowners expectations as pets. She did admit to a number of wounds from the birds. The most horrific scene – that took a week to shoot – was near the end when she was being ravaged by the birds. They were attached to her clothes by a long nylon thread to prevent escaping.

There are 950 residents and untold number of tourists that fill out the area’s extent. An event that you might want to mark on your calendar is the Bodega Volunteer Fire Department’s Annual Christmas Fair November 24 and 25. And, for you ocean and sea life aficionados, the UC Bodega Marine Laboratory on Bodega Head conducts ½ hour tours from 2 to 4pm every Friday. For hikers and whale watchers, there’s Bodega Head, a no-charge state park. And, if you’re inclined to beaching or camping, Sonoma County’s Doran Beach is the place. It has one of the most aesthetically lovely beaches in northern California.
Gourmet au Bay

Steve Hecht and Tammi Salas trekked up from Silicon Valley in 2002 to preside over 200 hand-selected award-winning California wines at Gourmet au Bay. Located approximately in the center of Bodega Bay’s business area and leaning out to the bay, Steve and Tammi retained the boutique ambiance fashioned by the shop’s creators, Ken and Connie Mansfield in 1995. They carry a wide assortment of gifts and wine accouterments to peruse while enjoying your wine. Wind Surfing is their presentation to the wine tasting experience. This consists of two ounces each of three wines from a daily list of six wineries and, weather permitting, can be enjoyed on Kaya’s deck. (Also new owners in 2008 - and also just as delightful!) www.gourmetaubay.com

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WINE BANTER: Guerneville to Healdsburg Tour

Taste wines along Sonoma County's Westside Road from Guerneville to Healdsburg


GUEST COLUMNIST - John Haggard of Sophies Cellars, Monte Rio, CA

WINE BANTER columist Dick Starr can be reached at djstarre@sbcglobal.net


Joining Guerneville’s River Road to Healdsburg is the picturesque meandering Westside Road. Starting from Guerneville, just a few miles along Westside road, as you find yourself somewhere between California and Tuscany, is Moshin Winery.

Traditional European winemaking is done without the use of pumps which may influence temperature and quality. There are those who dispute this, but Rick Moshin, “The Fruit Purest”, inspired by his extensive travels to Burgundy was determined that Moshin Vineyards would be a “gravity-flow” winery.

An important component of producing pinot noir in our Russian River Valley is a soil known as “goldridge”. Goldridge soils are a sandy loam with a high concentration of iron. This “terroir” or “soil composition” provides a great part of the distinct qualities of the now highly sort after Russian River pinot noirs. Warm sunny days and cool nights, exactly what we enjoy in our Russian River appellation, happen to be essential for the thin skinned pinot noir grape to flourish.

Rick Moshin built his winery from 2001-2004 on a plot of land with just the right grade of slope for his “Gravity Feed Winery”, terroir and, this perfect Russian River Valley climate. Perhaps the most important ingredient for producing pinot noir is one Rick already owned, his own winemaking talent. Elegance and finesse abound whether you taste the Moshin 2006 Molinari Vineyard Pinot Noir retailing at $26 or the Family Reserve Pinot noir at $45 (when available). Rick also produces sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, merlot, syrah, zinfandel as well as limited production wines available to his wine club members and sold through the tasting room.

The family owned and run winery is open seven days a week, tours by appointment. Many Sonoma artisan winemakers have used Rick’s facility for producing their wines including Merry Edwards (prior to opening her new winery on the Gravenstein Highway in Sebastopol), David Noyes, John and Chris Mason of Emtu Wines, George Levkoff of “George Wine Company”, and Kenny Litkitprakong of Banyan and Hobo wines, to name a few.

So, I have a few biases when it comes to varietals and clones. Chardonnay is one where a “wente” clone rules, in my book, as a quintessential food wine. UC Davis geneticists have identified hundreds if not thousands of clonal varietals within each species of grape displaying similar characteristics. When it comes to the Chardonnay grape, the wente clone, which is several varieties of chardonnay, produces, more often than not, an orange rind citrus nose in the glass, racey acidities and minerality, if not over-oaked or over malolactic (the secondary fermentation that produces the lactic acid or “buttery quality”).

This leads me to my June discovery – Bohème. Kurt Beitler, owner and winemaker, has produced an exceptional example of “whole cluster pressed direct to barrel” wente clone chardonnay from the Taylor Ridge Vineyards near Occidental (Bohème Chardonnay Taylor Ridge 2006 $44). He’s making the wine at his family’s facility (Caymus, in Rutherford, Napa Valley) and it’s a perfect pairing for seafood dishes such as seared scallops over an arugula salad.

From Bohème’s collection of pinot noirs, my choice is the Bohème Stuller Vineyard Pinot Noir 2006 (Retail $50-$60), particularly exciting about this find is the fact that it is 100% Dijon clone 115 (pinot noir). I find that this clonal varietal, properly cellared, has a unique ability to age gracefully and is a superb food wine. The flavors displayed by the Bohème Pinot Noir show exceedingly well paired with a multitude of dishes – a delicious pairing for beet salad, or roast duck breast in cherry sauce. You’ll find Bohème wines at several local Sonoma wine stores including Wine Tasting of Sonoma, Sonoma Fine Wine, Gourmet Au Bay and, of course, my store, Sophie’s Cellars! A few fine local restaurants carry their wines including Bistro des Copains, River’s End, Rocker Oysterfeller, Underwood and K & L Bistro.

John Haggard is owner of Sophie’s Cellars, The Sonoma Wine & Cheese Market in Monte Rio, California. Sophie’s Cellars is open 11am – 7pm, closed only on Wednesdays. http://www.sophiescellars.com/

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WINE BANTER - BYOB & Corkage Fees

Wine Etiquette: BYOB & Corkage Fees


Due to the number of well-received responses I received when I first wrote on this topic several years ago, I decided to do an update, especially relevant with so many new area restaurants.

Similar to driving manners, wine etiquette seems to be an endangered presence. A frequent question I’ve received concerns bringing your own wine when dining out. In an attempt to assert some decorum, we’ll look at this custom: BYOB and corkage fees.

It would be an act of infamy, living in grape utopia, not to occasionally bring one or more of your favorite wines to your eatery of choice. Although there is no universal protocol, there is an appropriateness to BYOB.

Certainly, corkage fees are a fair concept given restaurants’ thought, time, and expense maintaining a diverse inventory of wines compatible to their menu. Also, there is the additional time of the presentation of your wine with glassware, monitoring refill needs, and pouring. Some restaurants, other than furnishing the wine glasses, will leave the refills and pouring to you. Unless the corkage fee is above $15, I consider this to be a labor of love.

First, target your restaurant and call ahead keeping in mind not all will be BYOB friendly. As screenwriter and director, James Orr succinctly delineated, restaurants generally assume one of the following modes:

1. Gracious welcome (corkage fees waived)
2. Fraternal welcome ($2 - $15 which includes most of Sonoma County)
3. Reluctant welcome ($25 - $50 which includes Napa’s French Laundry)
4. Rude welcome (prohibits BYOB)

He goes on to propose that the corkage fee should never be more than twice the cost of the least expensive wine by the glass. For example, “if wine by the glass costs $7, corkage should be no more than $14.”

Although I’ve yet to find number four in Sonoma County, I have occasioned the “rude welcome” outside of California, especially in some areas of Florida where the “corkage fee” concept is alien. I generally telephone ahead and ask, “If wine is allowed to be brought in, what is the corkage fee?”

Second, it would be helpful if you had some knowledge of the entrees so you have an idea of what varietal to bring. When this isn’t feasible, I sometimes bring both a favorite red and white. If it is a spicy Eastern fare, don’t forget considering a nice, dry or semi-dry Gewurztraminer or Reisling.

Third, when calling, determine – unless you have access to the restaurant’s wine list – that the wine you are bringing isn’t offered by the restaurant. The establishment may consider it to be a base offense to bring a wine that is on their wine list. This can be ascertained during your reservation. When alerting the establishment, give the name of the winery, varietal, and vintage you intend to bring.

Fourth – and probably more important than above – don’t bring an inexpensive wine just to circumvent the restaurant’s wine charges. This rather pedestrian act will alert the staff to tag you and your guests as the great unwashed. You will forever carry this stigma to every establishment within communication of the restaurant you offended. Once shamed, you might as well brown bag your grape and slink into your favorite bowling alley.

Fifth, always make a magnanimous gesture to offer a taste to your server. Solicit and share notes of the wine. This can go a long way in developing a cordial relationship and increase the quality of service with your server. It was during a similar exchange that I had the restaurant’s chef come over to the table and serve a platter of gratis appetizers – including goat cheese – to go with a discernibly tannic petite syrah.

Sixth – and this is rather superfluous but visibly aesthetic – bring your wine in a container or carrier that doesn’t broadcast “brown bag.” Many wine stores carry such wine accessories.

In a random telephone survey of some of Sonoma County’s restaurants, I came up with the following fees:
.
RESTAURANTS - LOCATION - CORKAGE FEES
Bay View - Bodega Bay - $14
Bistro des Copains - Occidental - $15
Bistro Ralph - Healdsburg - $15 (donated to charity)
Café Portofino - Santa Rosa - $15
Cape Fear - Duncan Mills - $10
Elmo’s Steakhouse - Sebastopol - $15
Farm House Inn - Forestville - $35
French Garden - Sebastopol - $15
GTO’s Seafood House - Sebastopol - $15
Highland Dell = Monte Rio - $15
John Ash = Santa Rosa - $20
Lucas Wharf - Bodega Bay - $10
Manzanita - Healdsburg - Free if Healdsburg wine
Mosaic Restaurant - Forestville - $18 (free on Mondays)
Peter Lowell’s - Sebastopol - $15
Seaweed Café - Bodega Bay - none
Stella’s - Forestville - $15
Tides Wharf - Bodega Bay - $14
Triple R Bar & Grill - Guerneville - $10
Underwood Bar & Bistro - Graton - $15
Union Hotel - Occidental - $10
Valley Ford Hotel - Valley Ford - $10 Sonoma County Wines, $15 other wines, free on Wednesdays
Village Inn & Restaurant - Monte Rio - $15
Willie’s Seafood - Healdsburg - $15

Note: When purchasing your wine from Sophie’s Cellars in Monte Rio, there is no corkage fee when presenting your wine receipt at the following restaurants: Applewood Inn, Bistro Des Copains, Café Les Jumelles, Cazadero Lodge, Charizma, Mosaic, Triple R, and the Village Inn. Area menus are also available at Sophie’s to make it easier to select the right wine.

Cheers!

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