River's End Restaurant & Inn, Jenner, CA

Carolyn Horan takes on a culinary journey to Sonoma County restaurants she just plain enjoys. Her reviews are more than about food, they are about our community and the people who choose to feed us with their food, their time and their lives.


RIVER’S END Restaurant & Inn at 11048 Highway 1 on the coast in Jenner provides a quality experience with good food, presentation and service. The drive to Jenner on Highway 116 West takes you along the Russian River to the River’s End restaurant which sits on the cliff overlooking the ocean. The evening sunset adds to the romantic feeling of the restaurant. You might start with a special artisan cocktail. The chef (yes, Patrick Keane’s title is Cocktail Chef) creates classic cocktails with flavors and ingredients that will expand your conception of the pre-dinner cocktail. He trained at the French Culinary Institute but always had an appreciation for the bar. He wants to contribute to a whole new level of contemporary dining. As example you might try a Kaffir Lime Drop made with Hanger One Kaffir Lime vodka and fresh lime juice served in a citrus sugar rimmed glass, or a Cucumber Gimlet made with Hendricks Gin, fresh cucumber water and lime. If you want something more traditional I recommend Patrick’s Old Fashioned made with Maker’s Mark Whiskey or try his Rasberry Mojito or Cadillac Margarita. If you don’t want alcohol you can try one of five different non-alcoholic specialties. All alcoholic cocktails are $11 and non-alcoholic are $5.

You can select from several appetizers followed by soup or salad. I tried the Crispy Duck Confit Rolls - $12. The presentation of this dish adds to the pleasure of the taste and 4 people could share this appetizer. If you are a fan of beets I suggest the Technicolor beet salad which consists of roasted multi-colored beets layered with mascarpone and goat cheese, macadamia nuts and fresh basil with an orange balsamic vinaigrette for $14

Along with the daily special main courses include Fish, Pork, Filet Mignon, Duck, Elk or vegetarian with prices ranging from $18 to $49. There is a special Dungeness Crab Tasting Menu at a price fixe. I suggest you go to www.ilovesunsets.com to check this out. As a diner, you can see the chef at work through a glass enclosed kitchen and marvel at the presentation of all these meals. The Executive Chef is David Dahlquist , a young man who has literally spent half his life working in Sonoma County restaurant kitchens and loves the influences of all kinds of tastes: Asian, Mexican, Thai, Latin as example which he integrates into the flavors of California with local fresh products.


So how did these talented chefs end up in a restaurant on the coast? Bert Rangel and his wife, Stephanie, visited River’s End, staying in one of the cottages on a vacation in 1992. Bert fell in love with the setting and told Stephanie he wanted to live there- some day. In 1998 Bert was flying to San Francisco from Mexico City to meet Stephanie and some of their friends to spend a few days in Sonoma County. When Bert settled into his seat on the plane he opened the Wall Street Journal and ‘lo and behold’ there was a for sale ad for River’s End Restaurant and Inn. To make a long story short a few months later the deal was closed and Bert changed his profession from working on developing high tech facility projects to working the “front of the house” at River’s End, a job he loves. Stephanie continues with her profession scheduling construction projects which take her all over the world. They live in Jenner with their two children but find time to travel and visit restaurants to see what their friends and others are achieving with their culinary pursuits. Bert says, “I want River’s End to be a great value and experience. It’s too easy to be average, we want to be spectacular.” Bert has created a culture for the restaurant based on six guidelines: 1) what is the feeling (for the customer)upon walking in the door, 2) a music style that is pleasing for diners, 3) how does the staff approach and communicate with customers, 4) the quality of the food, 5) the presentation of the entire dining experience, and 6) the ambiance.

The restaurant received an ‘Award of Excellence’ in 2002 and has wine by the half bottles plus 17 options for wine by the glass. There is an extensive menu for your ‘Night Cap’ including cordials, ports, muscat, Riesling, brandy & congnac and single malt scotch. If you prefer to end the meal with dessert you could try chocolate mousse, old English Trifle, Mascarpone filled poached pear, creme brulee or house made ice cream.

Horan@sonic.net

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RESTAURANT REVIEW: Langley's on the Green

Langley's on Windsor's Town Green is a melting pot of family and food from across the planet, served in an open and friendly environment.


LANGLEY’S ON THE GREEN is located at 610 McClelland Dr. in Windsor. This is a first class restaurant that the owners refer to as “user friendly”. When you have a party you know how everyone likes to hang out in the kitchen, even though you decorated the living room and made sure there were comfortable areas for people to get together all through the house. This restaurant was designed with that in mind. There is a Dining Bar facing an ‘Open Exhibition Kitchen’ so customers who are so inclined can dine there, talk to the chefs and see all the dishes coming up for service in the rest of the restaurant. If that is not your style you can choose a cozy booth or regular tables in the dining area. Weather permitting you can also sit outside on the patio.

The menu changes with the seasons. Reflecting the concept of America as a melting pot the menu can include dishes with Italian influence, Asian inspired dishes or a variety of other ethnic selections. One thing they all have in common is the standard of fresh ingredients, cooked to perfection with an exquisite presentation. Everything is made from scratch -- for example the sauces are all prepared in reduction and not thickened with flour. All seafood is sustainable (not farm raised) and fruits and vegetables are organic as much as possible. They whip the butter so it is soft for easy spreading on the bread or rolls which are all homemade. Two examples of the current menu, each of which offers a full meal or a smaller version include: House Made Seafood Linguini with Dayboat Sea Scallops, Mussels and Clams, Sauteed with Andoille Sausage, in a Garlic White Wine Cream Sauce with Shaved Parmaigiano Reggiano for $29.95 or Linguini with Vegetables and White Wine Cream Sauce and Shaved Parmiagiano Reggiano for $16.95 – or a meat dish -- Grilled Pork Tenderloin with Cherry Reduction Sauce, Hoisin Glaze, Scallion Croquette Potatoes and Miso Orange Slaw with Sesame Seeds for $27.95 or a Petite Cut for $18.95. All the entrees include a suggested wine to pair with the food or you can select from the wine list. All desserts are $8.95 and are made in the restaurant.

So who is the chef that creates all these dishes and supervises the impressive presentation and service? None other than Fred Langley. I interviewed Katrina and Albert Von Moos, Fred’s parents and part of the team that makes Langley’s successful, and learned that Fred has been interested in cooking and the restaurant business since he started at age 12 helping in the kitchen at Salt Point Lodge where his mother worked. A European trained chef on the staff of Salt Point took Fred under his wing and taught him a lot over a period of six years. Fred then went to work for John Ash & Co under Executive Chef Jeffrey Madura and became the Souix Chef there. He has extensive experience in the catering business in Sonoma along with his wife Sara, who now divides her time between taking care of 2 year old Jack and coordinating Special Events for the restaurant.

One of the unique services of the restaurant is their Happy Hour which is daily from 5:00 to 6:00 p.m. and also on Friday and Saturday nights from 8:30 to 9:30 p.m. There is a ‘Bar Bite Menu’ available during Happy Hour that offers Mimi Burgers or Mini Pork Sandwiches for $1.00, jumbo garlic fries for $2.00 or Pork and Ginger Pot Stickers with spicy dipping sauce for $3.50. Wells drinks are $3.00, beers on tap $3.00 and House Margaritas, Martinis or glass of wine for $5.00.

Langley’s supports the community in many ways and sponsors four major events each year which include the Croquet Invitational supporting the “Make A Wish Foundation,” the Kendall Jackson Tomato Festival benefiting the “School Garden Network” and the Crush Festival benefiting St. John’s school in Healdsburg. Fred Langley works with the culinary students at the local high schools and mentors students from the Santa Rosa Junior College Culinary program.

Langley’s on the Green is open seven nights a week from 5:30 to 8:30 and Saturday and Sunday from 5:30 to 9:00. For more information you can check the web site http://www.langleysonethegreen.com/ or call 707 837 7984.

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RESTAURANT REVIEW: Bistro Des Copains

Occidental's Bistro Des Copains is a dream come true for partners Michel and Cluney, as well as consistently welcoming to locals and guests.


Bistro Des Copains in Occidental

Michel Augsburger and Cluney Stagg have been buddies and best friends since college. When Michel decided to fulfill his dream to open a restaurant his friend agreed to be a partner. Hence, the name Bistro de Copains (which means ‘buddies or friends). They are also business partners in their ‘Day Job’. Michel is the CEO of his own business, Chancellor Health Care, which operates several senior living communities throughout the country, and Cluney is the CFO. Michel is also Vice Chairman of the Assisted Living Federation of America, a trade association. So why would a person with so many irons in the fire and a frantically busy schedule decide to run a successful restaurant? For Michel, it is his love of French food and his passion for creating the menu and the friendly atmosphere and high quality of the restaurant itself. Michel has a huge library of cook books and he told me that two years before launching this venture he was playing with the menu on his laptop and thinking about the potential restaurant.

The restaurant, located in Occidental, offers the perfect venue with its intimate dining area, the patio, and the two wood burning ovens. The building (circa 1911) only needed some remodeling to meet Michel’s vision. There are historic pictures decorating the Bistro de Copains walls of Michel’s grandmother and father on the family farm in France. Michel’s background included time as a boy living in France where he learned the language and developed his love for the cuisine. He returns often to visit relatives and vacation.

Where does one start if you aren’t a trained chef and you want to open a first class restaurant? How about advertising on Craig’s List for a chef. That is what happened and a very talented chef, trained at a Culinary School in the Northwest, answered the call and worked with Michel and Cluney to refine recipes prior to, and after, the opening of the restaurant. As a matter of fact, all the rest of the staff have been there since the opening two years ago. With good planning and the enthusiasm of the people involved, the restaurant’s opening night served 51 people for the first dinner. The following of customers has stayed with them. While most are local people there are others, such as the couple from San Francisco, who dine at least once a week at the Bistro. So keep this in mind and make reservations so you won’t be disappointed.

The food is excellent as is the service. You are welcomed and treated like royalty. You might start with a Mousse d’Asperge et Chevre served warm on bioche toast with mixed greens ($10) or Croquettes de Morue (salt cod) with lemon roasted garlic aioli ($10) or Soupe a L ‘Oignon Gratine ($9) from among several starters. For the light diners try the Risotto aux Safran wth the bouillabaisse sauce ($16), the Raviolis aux Poireau ($16) or one of the Pizzas ($14). There are specialty entrees including pan-seared halibut, Harris Ranch hanger steak, duck breast, Coquilles Saint-Jacques, Half-roasted “Rosie” chicken, oven roasted loin of lamb, beef braised in red wine to name a few. The price range is from $20.00 to $23.00 on these items. There are other vegetable and potato options A la Carte. My favorite is the Gratin de Macaroni ($8), but I haven’t tried the Gratin Dauphinois yet. You can also order a selection of local artisan and imported French cheeses served with artisan bread, house made crackers, fruit and nuts. The wine list is extensive and offers many options by the glass. There are over 50 selections of Sonoma County red wines and over 15 selections of white or Rose wines. There are about 20 choices of French reds and almost an equal amount of white wines from France. And, if it is Sparkling wines you want with your French cuisine you can choose from 6 varieties. They also have dessert wines and aperitifs available by the glass.

Make your plans and reservations to visit Bistro Des Copains which is open seven (7) nights a week --5:00 until 9:00 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and 5:00 until 10:00p.m. Friday and Saturday. You’ll find the Bistro at 3782 Bohemian Highway in Occidental and the phone number is 707 874-2436.

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