Alexanders at Timber Cove Inn - Restaurant Review

Alexander’s – At Timber Cove Inn

As I thought about Valentine’s Day and a romantic setting for dinner, I pictured the waves of the Pacific Ocean crashing along the Sonoma County coast line. There are several outstanding dining experiences available along the coast, but we often think of them being too far and inaccessible. A bit of research on the web and I settled on Timber Cover Inn which is actually only about 15 miles north of Jenner. I think nothing of driving 45 miles to lunch in central Marin. Alexander’s Restaurant is less than 30 miles from my home in Forestville. In researching the Timber Cove Inn I found reasonable winter room rates so deciding to treat myself on this assignment. A friend joined me and we spent Saturday night and enjoyed both dinner and breakfast Sunday morning at Alexander’s.

Alexander’s is an intimate dining room with a view of the ocean and a central fireplace. The staff is both professional and friendly and you feel very welcome there. Chef Jon Mortimer trained at the Horst Mager Culinary Academy and then studied as an apprentice in Geilo, Norway and Fiesole, Italy before he become a corporate chef in the United States. He opened two restaurants in Idaho featuring a French/ Latin fusion in his culinary style. In the fall of 2008 he began the new restaurant at Timber Cove where he has established a signature cuisine incorporating products of the area’s ranchers, fisherman, farms and winemakers. Riley Huddleston (see picture) is the Executive Sous Chef who was trained at the New England Culinary Institute and worked at quality restaurants in Manhattan and Seattle before going to Boise where he opened his own restaurant, the Boise Fry Company, which he still operates.

Both men contribute to creating a menu that addresses their motto, “Where Earth Meets Ocean.” For my dinner I selected the Butternut Squash Soup with crisp leeks and crème fraiche ( $ 7) and the Sonoma Lamb Shank: cabernet braised, sun dried tomato, Yukon Gold potato, root vegetables and tomato jam ( $26). Also on the ‘earth’ side of the menu was Creek Stone Ranch New York Steak with steamed asparagus, au gratin potatoes and cabernet demi glace ( $28) a Pork Loin dish ( $24) and Wild Mushroom Fettuccine with Chanterelles, black Trumpet, porcini Crème fraiche, shallot , root vegetable, and squashes ( $19). The Ocean side featured fish soups and salads ($12 to $15), Swordfish, Cioppino, Salmon Roulade or Corvina Sea Bass ranging from ( $25 to $27).

The breakfast menu Sunday morning included five house specialties, four options from the griddle, four egg and omelet selections and fresh fruit/yogurt/cereal choices. I chose the Eggs Benedict ($12.50). The service was good and the food (and the coffee) was fresh and hot. I like that. The lunch menu along with soup and salads, features five sandwiches or burgers ranging from $9 to $15, and three pastas ranging from $12 to $14, plus Dungeness Crab Cakes for $15.

Chef Mortimer is a wine connoisseur and pairing wine with food is an important aspect of his culinary art. The wine list is quite extensive and more that I can cover in this article. Chef Huddleston has a special interest in spices. He is introducing into his dishes new spices that he is getting from his father who is currently working in the Middle East. He feels spices, like a good wine, should be well balanced.

Alexander’s features monthly Wine Maker Dinners, Jazz and Martini Nights, Musicians for Holiday Events, Concert Series for Summer on the Outdoor Stage, Locals Night the first Friday of each month featuring a musician and special meal, and is planning joint ventures with Gualala Art Center. To learn more about the ongoing events you can go to www.timbercoveinn.com

I had a wonderful pre-Valentine treat. My friend Barbara Lavaroni and I entertained two friends, the Lamberts from Sea Ranch, who joined us for a glass of wine Saturday afternoon. We played a game of ‘Rummikub’ and had a nice drink from the bar in the spacious lounge of the lodge before dinner. We shared a charming rustic room with two comfortable queen beds and a fireplace. Our meals were delicious with generous portions and a great presentation. The tab for all of this cost us each $183.84. Of course, we could have just driven up for dinner (or breakfast) and not stayed in the Inn, but once in a while you should do something special for yourself. You deserve it.

Timber Cove Inn is located at 21780 North Coast Hwy 1 in Timber Cove, CA. The phone is 707 847 3231.

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In Search of Soup - Sonoma County Restaurants

By Vesta Copestakes
There’s nothing like a cold, cloudy winter day to make you feel like seeking out the comfort of a hot bowl of soup. You want to feel nurtured by that special combination of ingredients that makes each soup unique. Add a hunk of soft, warm bread or crispy crackers and there’s little else needed to bring a deep sigh to your heart.

Alan (my guy) and I took to the streets of Sonoma County and did as much soup tasting as we had time. I sought advice through e-mails and Facebook as we headed out. I also asked a few chefs to write about their inspirations which you’ll find following this article. By no means is this a complete list of places to get good soups. That would probably take a lifetime here in Sonoma County!

Let’s start in our home town since it’s where we began…

Mosaic in Forestville came as a suggestion from many. One traveler even commented that they were staying up in Healdsburg and asked around for suggestions and many people told them to go to Forestville. Tai Olesky, owner/creator/chef, grew up here so his heart is right at home in the center of our little town. This is not humble down-home fare, this is food created with taste, nourishment and sensuality all mixed in together. The soup we enjoyed was a rich, creamy Roasted Winter Squash – Coconut Curry Bisque. Wow! Talk about sliding across your tongue exciting taste buds along the way! A bowl of soup and a salad made a full meal. OK, we indulged in dessert. Mosaic is an adventure in eating, not just a place to fill your belly.

Actually, I’ll stay in Forestville for a bit since there are several places here for good soup! My absolute favorite is Front Street Coffee. Coleen is the kind of cook whose mission is to nourish your soul as well as your body. She uses fresh ingredients from local gardens, and you can watch her cook while getting your morning cup of energy, savoring her exceptional scones and chatting with friends. Coleen is just good people and her soups reflect her soul. She wrote a little piece I’ll include below so you can get the inside scoop. When the timing is right, I get soup to-go for later. I recommend it.

Just about next door is Aioli Deli and I asked Autumn Opitz to cook up an especially colorful soup to photograph so she came through with a delightful combination of orange (Roasted Red Pepper) and green (Creamy Fennel). It’s the cover photo. I’m one of those people, who enjoys watching people prepare food and here you can sit at the counter to eat while Autumn or Nicholas create meals for customers. Lots of people take food to go. Check out the sandwiches you can have with your soup! We took soup home one day and I indulged in a side of golden beets with goat cheese. Be still my heart! I was told by countless people to go to Aioli, so I’ll pass that advice along. And Autumn wrote about her inspirations – see below. Good people…good food.

I’d tasted Elizabeth Wade’s appetizers at a Chamber of Commerce Mixer so I was curious what else she could create. Alan and I stopped by where she cooks at Cork’s at Russian River Vineyards on a chilly, misty day and sat near a warm heater to imbibe our soup. He chose a French Onion and I chose Carrot Ginger. We kept passing the bowls back and forth until each was gone. The French Onion was wonderfully traditional with lots of onions, flavorful broth with a slice of toasted cheese-covered bread dipped into the soup. My carrot soup was light, not heavy with cream, so it sat comfortably in my belly, which I appreciated immensely!

Down Hwy 116 toward Graton and Sebastopol is Henweigh Café and I asked Dennis to write about his pride and joy…Clam Chowdah – so I’ll send you to his essay below and tell you a bit about our adventures with Clam Chowder as long as we’re on the subject!

This particular soup has a following and people will tell you where to get the best, what makes it the best and it’s all very personal! I come from New England – as does Dennis, so of course we feel justified in our passions and opinions about this worthy soup. The one thing everyone seems to agree on is that the tomato Manhattan version simply isn’t clam chowder no matter how much they claim it is. If it’s not milky or creamy, loaded with potatoes and clams, it’s not the real deal.

And I’ll tell you right here that my absolute favorite version of this soup can’t be found in a restaurant. Alan makes it exactly the way I like it – brothy, not thick, with more clams than potatoes, just a touch of vegetable in chives and herbs. He puts other things in there but I don’t ask – I just savor! And we both agree that Spud Point Crab Company on Bodega Bay comes in next (they sell a little recipe book so you can take home the secret), then Café Aquatica in Jenner just behind – but that’s the way WE like our Chowdah! There are just as many others who want it so thick you can stand your spoon up in it and loaded with bits of bacon. This subject is personal!

I think I’ll digress into French Onion Soup here since that’s just as personal and seems to carry the weight of varied opinions. We didn’t get back down to Petaluma to try De Schmire’s French Onion – but we did taste their winter squash soup when we had dinner there last month. Carolyn Horan had reviewed the restaurant in our December edition so we dropped by some copies and stayed for dinner. You HAVE to go here! We heard from just about everyone that this is the place for French Onion soup, so it’s on our list and we recommend that you put it on yours as well.

OK, we’re in Petaluma now so we’ll take you to Graffiti because we were told this is the place to get the “Flight of Three”, which are three different soups served in cups on a plate. They change daily and the day we went for lunch the soups were Chili, Tomato and Poblano Cream beautifully presented to our corner table in the bar surrounded by large windows bringing the outdoors in to us.

This restaurant felt very relaxed and easy, our Caesar salad was excellent and they served flash fried Calamari…one of those foods by which I judge restaurants. As readers know, my favorite Calamari is at Lucas Wharf in Bodega Bay – not fried. I have to say that Graffiti’s offerings were excellent and make me want to go back to try more of their food.

I’m all over the map here and want very badly too take you into Santa Rosa for soup, but we never got there. Alan’s vacation time coincided with my production time unfortunately, so we’ll wait for another day. That’s the joy of life – there’s so much in front of you to experience!

So I’ll take you with us as we searched out traditional Italian Minestrone at Giorgio’s in Healdsburg. I had never been there but a reader suggested we go, so we did! My mother’s side of the family is Italian and my Nana used to own both an Italian grocery as well as restaurant, so I grew up on these flavors. There are a whole collection of these Family-style Italian restaurants in Sonoma County and Alan and I have sampled a few. They bring me down Memory Lane.

Giorgio’s fits right into the genre with the big porches, checkered table clothes, and families lined up a large tables. This is good stuff! The Minestrone had all the vegetables, beans and broth you expect. If you love this kind of food I’d like to suggest Dinucci’s in Valley Ford, The Union Hotel and Negri’s in Occidental as well. Each has its own version of your favorites to it’s fun to go from one to the next and taste them all.

Alan and I were running out of time by now so we took another culinary direction by going to Windsor for Oriental. We had recommendations for Truc Linh Vietnamese but they were closed, so we took the next on our list, Chinois Asian Bistro. Wow! That was spectacular! I used to duck in here with copies of my paper when delivering to Windsor and always noted how good it smelled. Debbie, the owner, also owns Ume Japanese Bistro on the east side of Windsor which we have enjoyed numerous times. She’s one busy and talented woman! When we asked what soup was their signature on the menu both Debbie and our waitress enthusiastically recommended “Laksa” Spicy Coconut Seafood Noodle Soup. This soup is alive with flavor!!! Shrimp, clams and scallops float around in the spicy and sweet broth and it’s just plain pretty to look at. Alan got excited so we also ordered the Spicy Taiwanese Short Rib noodle soup in honor of his days working at a Chinese restaurant in Sacramento. They never had short ribs on the menu but the cooks prepared them for staff. This soup inspired stories as we ate our way right through dessert. What a total delight this place is!

And even though we didn’t get by there this time around, in the past we have feasted on Mediterranean Fish Stew at Terrapin Creek Café in Bodega Bay so we want to encourage you to do the same. Carolyn Horan wrote a full review in our December 2008 issue so you can find it in the Restaurant Review archives on our web site at GazExtra! Andrew and Liya Truong have created a healthy, clean menu of options to enjoy, and this fish stew is right at the top for satisfying soups on a cold winter day.

I’d love to take you out to more places but I’m out of space and time. What I would like is your suggestions since Sonoma County is famous for our food as much as for our wines. Our little foray in search of soup is but a mere taste of all that is available. Please send your suggestions to vesta@sonic.net and I’ll add them on the web version of this article. Most of all…have fun while you’re out exploring for soups! We are all blessed to live in paradise!

Mosaic
6675 Front Street, Forestville
(707) 887-7503
mosaiceats.com

Front Street Coffee
6544 Front Street, Forestville
(707) 887-9647

Aioli – a Gourmet Delicatessen
6536 Front Street, Forestville
(707) 887-2476

Henweigh Café
4550 Gravenstein Highway South, Sebastopol
(707) 829-7500
henweighcafe.com

Cafe Aquatica
10439 Highway 1, Jenner
707-865-2251

Spud Point Crab Company
1860 Westshore Road, Bodega Bay
707-875-9472

DeSchmire
304 Bodega Avenue, Petaluma
(707) 762-1901
deschmirerestaurant.com

Graffiti
101 2nd Street, Petaluma
707-765-4567
graffitipetaluma.com

Lucas Wharf
595 S Highway 1
Bodega Bay, CA 94923-9783
(707) 875-3522

Giorgio’s Restaurant
25 Grant Ave, Healdsburg
(707) 433-1106

Negri’s Original Italian Restaurant
3700 Bohemian Highway, Occidental
(707) 823-5301
negrisrestaurant.com

Union Hotel
3731 Main Street, Occidental
(707)- 874-3444
unionhotel.com
1007 West College Avenue, Santa Rosa
(707)-544-3444
280 Mission Blvd, Santa Rosa

Dinucci’s Italian Dinners
(707)-538-6000
14485 Valley Ford Rd Valley Ford, CA 94972
(707) 876-3260

Chinois Asian Bistro
186 Windsor River Road, Windsor
(707) 838-4667
http://www.olddowntownwindsor.com/splash_pages/chinois.html

Terrapin Creek Café
1580 Eastshore Road, Bodega Bay
(707) 875-2700
terrapincreekcafe.com

Below are suggestions from readers on their favorite places to get soup!

Pat's Restaurant
16236 Main Street, Guerneville
(707) 869-9904
pats-restaurant.com
Holly Robinson says that Richard Hines makes a different soup every day and every one of them is wonderful - tastey, healthy and just plain good. As she listed each one she started to get the glow of wanting a bowl and finally decided that she simply had to go there for dinner that night.

Pho Vietnam
711 Stony Point Rd, Santa Rosa
(707) 571-7687
This is one of Betsy's favorites - she likes clean, fresh food. One of the reviews on the internet says "This place has amazingly flavorful soup, fast no-nonsense service...” so check it out! Betsy also recommends...

My Ha - Vietnamese
385 Aviation Boulevard, Santa Rosa
(707) 527-8882
...as someone else says - Vietnamese at its best. They are close to the Tierra Vegetable Farm so you might want to go grocery shopping for farm-fresh veggies while over there.

Willowood Market Café
9020 Graton Road, Graton
(707) 823-0233
willowoodgraton.com
...this restaurant gets high marks from many people. Their soups are always excellent no matter what kind they are making that day. Quite honestly - everything the create is excellent!

Mombo's Pizza
560 Gravenstein Highway North, Sebastopol
(707) 823-7492
mombospizza.com
I admit this came as a complete surprise as a soup suggestion. It never occurred to me to go there for soup! I guess I'm just going to have to try it!

French Garden
8050 Bodega Avenue, Sebastopol
(707) 824-2030
frenchgardenrestaurant.com
This place gets highly recommended from many people so it's on my list to check out for myself.

Pizza Gourmet
1415 Fulton Rd, Santa Rosa
(707) 575-1677
pizza-gourmet.com
I've eaten here MANY times and find it consistently good so when my friend Sylvia raved about her experience here, I knew I wanted it on the list. The salads are my favorite food, but everything is created with care and the people are delightful.

Costeaux French Bakery
417 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg
(707) 433-1913
costeaux.com
As reader Dan says Tres Bonne! So I'd say we BOTH need to find out what he's talking about!

Jimtown Store
6706 Hwy 128, Healdsburg
(707) 433-1212
jimtown.com
Dan also recommended Jimtown and I double that! he says their Butternut Squash Apple Soup is exceptional and whether I've had that one or not - everything I've eaten there has been wonderful...and I don't think it's because I enjoyed the ride out there so much that I was in a really good mood! Find out for yourself!

Thai Orchid
1005 Vine St, Healdsburg
(707) 433-0515
Dan recommends the Chicken Coconut Soup so let's go find out!

Truc Linh
810 McClelland Drive, Windsor
(707) 838-6746
truclinh-restaurant.com
They were closed when we went by and that's how we ended up at Chinois - but I have to say that every time I went in there when delivering my newspaper, the woman who owns the place was remarkably friendly. She even gave me bottled water to drink on a hot day. I was touched! That kind if warmth scores big with me - her food must be good!

Bodega General Store
17190 Bodega Highway, Bodega
707-377-4056
bodegastore.com
Elizabeth down the road at The Casino has told me numerous times to go get soup from Mathew & Mike and I have yet to do it - then when Aleta called she got the same story. We didn't make it for this article, but we will. Bodega is often on our motorcycle ride out to the coast and back, so there are many opportunities!

That's it for now - please feel free to send more suggestions (vesta@sonic.net) and we'll add them over time:

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Restaurant Review - Pesto Bar Café

This month we are looking at soups. I could go on and on about favorite soups but I am concentrating on a new restaurant I visited in Sebastopol, the PESTO Bar Café located at 101 South Main Street. I had heard there were good soups in this restaurant—and here are some examples: Sweet Potato Pear Bisque, Summer Squash Bisque, Carrot Ginger, Cream of Broccoli, Ham – Potato and Pea and French Onion. The price of a cup of soup is $4.50 and a bowl is $7.00. But if you add a cup of soup to a sandwich or burger it is $2.00 on top of the sandwich price.

The restaurant’s main feature is the wide variety of dishes with pesto. Along with traditional basil pesto there are pestos made with heirloom tomato, lemon parsley, arugula-walnut, cilantro-almond, kale-pecan, sun dried tomato, caper, basil pesto cream, roasted red bell pepper and many, many more. The pesto menu is based on seasonal items purchased at the Farmer’s Market in Sebastopol and other local farms. They feature a pesto of the day and they even have pesto potato chips.

Jerri Luzania is the owner and Adam Knaak is the chef, assisted by Ivan Redus. Jerri runs the business details and the front of the house with support from her sisters who live in this area. Previously, Jerri was a partner in a marketing firm in Southern California, but she moved here to be closer to her family. Adam has worked in the restaurant business in this area for 15 years.

The menu features the soups ($4.50 to $7), fresh salads ($6 to $9), and Ravioli, Chicken, Filet Mignon, Pasta, French Burger, fresh fish, Duck Confit and Polenta Napoleon. Main course prices range from $8 (Pasta dishes) to $17 with one exception, Filet Mignon at $29. Desserts are $10.

They also have wine and beer and offer a selection of interesting wine based cocktails.

This restaurant is still going through some initial organization, offering new special holiday and brunch menus and planning new and different items on their regular menu. Their hours have fluctuated during the holidays and there may be some fluctuation during the winter months. Currently they are closed on Monday. They are open for Tuesday through Friday for lunch and dinner. On Saturday they open starting at 9:00 a. m. for brunch and continue through dinner till 9;00 p.m. Sunday open for brunch but not dinner. I recommend you call the restaurant at 707 829 3212 and check on the schedule. If they are not open they have a message machine that will tell you the hours and also tell you about the specials they may be running.

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Restaurant Review - DeSchmire

“When I first walked in that back door I knew some day I would like to own this restaurant.” That is the thing that crossed Danny Eastman’s mind when he went to work for De Schmire Restaurant in Petaluma 24 years ago. Danny started by washing dishes, moved into learning prep work and then the entire restaurant business through ‘on the job’ training.

The Restaurant was originally a candy store, later turned into a restaurant where people lined up to savor the good food served on wooden tables with benches. Later Matt Roche and Robert Steiner bought the restaurant and enclosed the patio and replaced the picnic benches with individual tables, white table clothes and napkins, creating a different dining atmosphere.

They taught Danny Eastman all he needed to know by the time he purchased the restaurant in February of 2007. A month for painting and sprucing the place up and Danny was ready to go. He had help from Andrew Lujan who started at this restaurant himself as an apprentice in 1975 and is now the chef. Andy Lujan developed his taste for cooking from his mother who was a well known pastry chef. Andy also has worked in other French Restaurants, such as La Petite Bergier and Daniel’s in Marin County and The Bistro in Santa Rosa. Two other team members are Judi Mitchell who takes care of the front of the house and Greg Call, another chef, who has also been around for about 20 years creating the tasty meals of the house. These three chefs get along very well as the kitchen is rather small and it takes real coordination to work around each other.

Dan runs the business and purchases all the food as well as serving as part time Chef and Front of the House. He buys locally, getting meat from Rancho Veal (where he gets his sweetbreads), produce in Penngrove, fish from San Francisco, and his duck from Reichardt Duck Farm. His menu is extensive. He tries to have 3 or 4 fish dishes, chicken, beef, duck, veal, and 4 specialties every night. Danny’s specialty is his soups. He always has French Onion and Roasted Garlic Mushroom, but there are other special soups offered at different times. This week it is pumpkin soup. Last week a customer said, “I’ve eaten onion soup all over the world and this is the best I have ever had.”

The menu is French cuisine and entrees are extensive. The selections include: Filet Mignon , New York Steak or Sauté de Beouf ($22 to $24); De Whole Schmire combines filet mignon and jumbo prawns Portuguese (($28); Rack of Lamb ($29); Sweetbreads ($29)’ Veal Morel ($25); Chicken dishes ($20 - $28); Roast Duck ($20); two Prawn dishes ($22); Salmon ($21) Halibut ($22); Sole Dore ($21) and Paris Nights – a medley of fresh seafood, scallops, prawns, sea bass and mussels served in a creamy saffron sauce ($22). On top of this every night they have 3 or 4 Specialty Dishes.

There are 7 selections for Appetizers ($7 to $9) and 7 different soups and salads ($5 to $7) on the regular menu. The desserts include a chocolate mousse and crème Brule. The wine list changes but you can get wine by the glass, or a bottle of white wine which ranges in price from $30 to $45 and red wines ranging from $30 to $55.

When I decided to cover a restaurant in Petaluma I asked some “foodie” friends for a recommendation and without hesitation heard, DE SCHMIRE. The atmosphere is inviting, and both the service and the food are very good. As you know, French Cuisine is noted for delicate sauces that are part of the different dishes. You won’t be disappointed at De Schmire.

The restaurant is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays. Wednesday through Sunday they are open for dinner starting at 5:30 till closing (about 9:00). It is helpful to call in for dinner reservations so Danny has staff on board for crowded evenings, and you will be assured of a table. The phone number is 707 762 1901. There is a banquet room that holds 35 people. It is popular for Holiday Parties, Weddings, Birthdays and other special events. The restaurant is located at 203 Bodega Avenue in Petaluma. It is very close to downtown and parking is available across the street.

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De Schmire Restaurant: Petaluma CA

“When I first walked in that back door I knew some day I would like to own this restaurant.” That is the thing that crossed Danny Eastman’s mind when he went to work for De Schmire Restaurant in Petaluma 24 years ago. Danny started by washing dishes, moved into learning prep work and then the entire restaurant business through ‘on the job’ training.

The Restaurant was originally a candy store, later turned into a restaurant where people lined up to savor the good food served on wooden tables with benches. Later Matt Roche and Robert Steiner bought the restaurant and enclosed the patio and replaced the picnic benches with individual tables, white table clothes and napkins, creating a different dining atmosphere. They taught Danny Eastman all he needed to know by the time he purchased the restaurant in February of 2007. A month for painting and sprucing the place up and Danny was ready to go. He had help from Andrew Lujan who started at this restaurant himself as an apprentice in 1975 and is now the chef. Andy Lujan developed his taste for cooking from his mother who was a well known pastry chef. Andy also has worked in other French Restaurants, such as La Petite Bergier and Daniel’s in Marin County and The Bistro in Santa Rosa. Two other team members are Judi Mitchell who takes care of the front of the house and Greg Call, another chef, who has also been around for about 20 years creating the tasty meals of the house. These three chefs get along very well as the kitchen is rather small and it takes real coordination to work around each other.

Dan runs the business and purchases all the food as well as serving as part time Chef and Front of the House. He buys locally, getting meat from Rancho Veal (where he gets his sweetbreads), produce in Penngrove, fish from San Francisco, and his duck from Reichardt Duck Farm. His menu is extensive. He tries to have 3 or 4 fish dishes, chicken, beef, duck, veal, and 4 specialties every night. Danny’s specialty is his soups. He always has French Onion and Roasted Garlic Mushroom, but there are other special soups offered at different times. This week it is pumpkin soup. Last week a customer said, “I’ve eaten onion soup all over the world and this is the best I have ever had.”

The menu is French cuisine and entrees are extensive. The selections include: Filet Mignon , New York Steak or Sauté de Beouf ($22 to $24); De Whole Schmire combines filet mignon and jumbo prawns Portuguese (($28); Rack of Lamb ($29); Sweetbreads ($29)’ Veal Morel ($25); Chicken dishes ($20 - $28); Roast Duck ($20); two Prawn dishes ($22); Salmon ($21) Halibut ($22); Sole Dore ($21) and Paris Nights – a medley of fresh seafood, scallops, prawns, sea bass and mussels served in a creamy saffron sauce ($22). On top of this every night they have 3 or 4 Specialty Dishes.

There are 7 selections for Appetizers ($7 to $9) and 7 different soups and salads ($5 to $7) on the regular menu. The desserts include a chocolate mousse and crème Brule. The wine list changes but you can get wine by the glass, or a bottle of white wine which ranges in price from $30 to $45 and red wines ranging from $30 to $55.

When I decided to cover a restaurant in Petaluma I asked some “foodie” friends for a recommendation and without hesitation heard, DE SCHMIRE. The atmosphere is inviting, and both the service and the food are very good. As you know, French Cuisine is noted for delicate sauces that are part of the different dishes. You won’t be disappointed at De Schmire.
The restaurant is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays. Wednesday through Sunday they are open for dinner starting at 5:30 till closing (about 9:00). It is helpful to call in for dinner reservations so Danny has staff on board for crowded evenings, and you will be assured of a table. The phone number is 707 762 1901. There is a banquet room that holds 35 people. It is popular for Holiday Parties, Weddings, Birthdays and other special events. The restaurant is located at 203 Bodega Avenue in Petaluma. It is very close to downtown and parking is available across the street.

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Seahorse Restaurant: Newest Dining in Guerneville

The Russian River area has a new player amongst it’s several good restaurants, the SEAHORSE Restaurant. Jim Harkey who owns the Cape Fear restaurant in Duncan Mills and his partner, Daniel MagD’Leno have opened a new restaurant located at the Russian River Resort (Triple R) at 16390 Fourth Street in downtown Guerneville.

Born in Cape Fear, North Carolina, Jim started to cook at the age of five making biscuits and gravy with his mother, and continued learning as he grew up, preparing the clams and crabs and other seafood his fisherman father brought home. In 1989 he visited Sonoma County to taste the wine, fell in love with the river, and ultimately opened a restaurant in Sebastopol and Cape Fear in Duncan Mills. Jim emphasizes the importance of all aspects of the business which includes putting together a menu with a distinctive combination of foods, cooking with the best ingredients, creating specialty desserts, and of equal importance, developing an atmosphere with customer friendly staff that provides excellent service. He has incorporated the traditional southern hospitality in his restaurants. (As an example, 3 or 4 years ago I was having lunch at Cape Fear with my daughter and we were talking about it being my birthday that week. At the end of my lunch the server put a piece of cake with a candle on it in front of me. Surprised, I asked my daughter if she had ordered that. Not the case, the server heard it was my birthday and just brought me a piece of cake.)

The past four years Jim and Daniel have enjoyed traveling, visiting North Carolina or New York or Paris. But now they are committed to working seven days a week in the two restaurants. The SEAHORSE brings some of the special salad dressings and seafood dishes from CAPE FEAR but the atmosphere is different and the menu reflects a different dining experience. For starters, the Triple R Resort has a full bar so dining patrons can order drinks and wine to go with their meal.

For dinner there is a variety of small plates including always popular Crab Cakes for $9.50. The larger portion ‘Hot Plates’ served with salad and bread offer ten selections ranging from $16 to $24.50. Examples are: Grilled Razorback Ribs with Fries and Pineapple Coleslaw for $18; Big Lamb Shank $19; New York Sirloin steak $24; Seahorse Shellfish Bucket – shrimp, clams, scallops & mussels in spicy chili-garlic broth with Linguini $24 or Big Family Fried Chicken – boneless Breast and Thigh served with Peach Ketchup Dip, watermelon pickle, fried and coleslaw for $18. Additionally there are Burgers and Salad such as Avocado Seafood Remoulade – shrimp, scallops, mussel, green onion & red pepper in Lemon-Mustard Mayonnaise with Cucumber, Tomato and Olives for $14.75

Lunch menu has Salad Plates, Sandwich Plates, Hot Plates and Small Plates. Too much to mention but it does include a Fried Oyster Poor Boy with fries or salad for $13.50 – My Favorite. The Breakfast menu features five varieties of Benedict’s plus other egg dishes and a variety of Omelette Plates and selection of Waffles. The waffles are served with Maple Syrup and Orange Butter and egg plates served with home fries and toast. The price range from waffles to benedict is $6.50 to $13.50. Partner Daniel is the expert on desserts such as: Dark Chocolate Pat’de’crème, Buttermilk Apple Cake, Lemon Tarts, or Sourdough Bread Pudding with Crème anglaise, all at $7.50. I haven’t covered the wine list as that comes from the bar operated by the Resort.

SEAHORSE is open seven nights a week for dinner from 5:30 to 9:30. They are also open Friday through Monday for breakfast and lunch: Mondays and Fridays 10:30 to 2:30 and Saturday and Sunday from 9:00 to 3:00. For more information or reservations call 707 869 3333. The restaurant is on Fourth Street which is 2 short blocks off Main Street. I would put this one on your list to try.

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Restaurant Review: Henweigh Cafe, Sebastopol CA

Dad comes home from work and says to son, “I saw a henweigh on the way home today.” Son asks. “What’s a henweigh?” Dad, “Oh, about 5 pounds,” DRUM ROLL –CYMBOL CRASH! That was one of the family jokes when Dennis Kelly was growing up. Now he, and partner, Lois Nielsen have decided that is the perfect name for their new venture, the HENWEIGH CAFÉ. You can find this charming place at 4550 Gravenstein Hwy N. Although the address is Sebastopol it is nestled toward Forestville in the “Mom’s Apple Pie” building and is developing a local following of people in this west county area.

Dennis and Lois didn’t get here by accident. They spent time looking at their interests and planning their future. Dennis has a background in high tech business – marketing specifically, and he likes entertaining and cooking. Lois has been in the retail business and knows her way around developing a business plan. Their plan included having a landmark restaurant, a community presence, an admired reputation, quality food while being sensitive to the economy and having a good time.

With this in mind they opened the Henweigh Café. They have an open kitchen that is neat and visible. Having competent and friendly employees and mentoring younger staff is a priority for Dennis and Lois. They want the restaurant to be a place that has a pleasant atmosphere and customers feel welcomed. There is an outside deck and the owners are dog friendly. So you can bring your pet to sit quietly by your table on the deck.

Dennis and Lois have already established partnerships with other businesses and organizations in the area. This includes developing relationships with smaller local wineries and sponsoring a local soccer team. They plan to be proactive in the community and are engaged in special activities, wine tasting events, banquets, private parties and having fun in general at all times.
While they both cook, Dennis specializes in smoking the baby back ribs. He has a industrial size barbeque smoker and along with the ribs he prepares special menus featuring Smoked Chicken and Cold Smoked Rib Eye steaks. Lois developed the menu and creates some of the recipes. Her house special is the Chicken Pot Pie. She also has created some interesting sandwich recipes. They are planning a contest in October to see which they sell more of: the Smoked Ribs or the Chicken Pot Pies.

To give you an idea of the menu they have nine choices of burgers or sandwiches served with citrus slaw and house made potato chips or you can substitute sweet potato fries. These include 4 kinds of Panini grilled sandwiches ($6 to $9 each), tuna melt or vegetable sandwich ($7) bacon –turkey ($8), pulled BBQ Pork ($8) Burger ($12) and the baby back ribs half-rack ($14) or full rack ($20). Main course entrees are Three cheese Pasta ($13) The Henweigh chicken pot pie ($14) and Bourbon Marinated Flank Steak ($18). There are 4 selections of salads from mixed greens to a salad with grilled steak and blue cheese on top which range from $6 to $10. Or you can settle on a selection of their 7 side dishes ranging from $4 to $7. For something really different try their Classic Swiss for $28 which is a fondue made with Gruyere and Emmantaler cheeses and an assortment of dipping items. This would be a nice treat with a bottle of local wine from their wine list. In the winter they will be introducing some special items such as Boston Clam Chowder.

Sundays they serve Brunch from 9:30 to 2:00 ($17). You select from Quiche, Crab & Dill Scramble, Eggs Benedict, Vanilla Malted French Toast or Poached Egg with Chorizo Hash. There are also some Ala Carte items on the brunch menu and their coffee is organic Italian Blend from Sonoma County.

Henweigh is open Wednesday and Thursday 11:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m., on Fridays and Saturdays they serve 11:00 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. and the Sunday brunch 9:30 a.m. till 2:00 p.m. You can call them at 707 829 7500. Their web site is http://www.henweighcafe.com/ where you can sign up for a newsletter and send them emails.

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Bodega Bay Italian Restaurant Cioppino

Seeking Italian on the Sonoma County Coast

by Carolyn Horan

Cioppino at 1400 Highway One in Bodega Bay is the latest business venture by restaurateur Steve Weissmann. With business partners Nancy DeLorenzo, the General Mangager, and Ron Mac Donald, the Chef, Steve is creating a new look and menu at this location that has been a restaurant for over twenty years. A couple months ago the transition began when this team took over “Claudio’s” in Pelican Plaza in Bodega Bay. They started slowly by interviewing customers and local patrons to see what they wanted. The answers to their queries were: ‘fish and chips’ – ‘white clam chowder’ – ‘pizza with a nice crisp crust’ – and lower prices.

Nancy worked with Sonja (a server at the restaurant) to design and create a new look for the building that has a nice view of the bay. The new décor is very pleasing and features interesting paintings of local artists which can be purchased (prices ranging from $200 to $6000). The furniture offers a warm and comfortable setting. For this interview I sat on an easy chair next to a couch and coffee table which had a special treat on it: a series of small intimate soft paper cook books printed in the 1930’s and 40’s. Thumbing through one I even found a hand written recipe on a piece of paper turning brown with age. If you like the outdoors there is a glass enclosed porch for dining. As part of the future plans the owners may expand to the second floor which has a great view of the bay and could be available for special events as well as regular dining.

All the partners are local Sonoma residents. Steve attended Anally High and worked for years with his dad in the restaurant business (actually his dad ran a restaurant in this location some many years ago. Nancy DeLorenzo is from Petaluma and has an extensive background that includes the food service banquet business as well as marketing and retail. She clearly has an artistic bent which shows in the décor. Ron started as a dishwasher when he was a young sprout and 25 years ago worked his way up to Chef at Orlando’s in Santa Rosa. He has been in the local food scene ever since and the Cioppino Recipe is his signature dish for this restaurant.

Friday and Saturday evenings a single musician is present to entertain the diners. It is often a solo guitarist or someone who plays and sings. Also there is a musician most Sundays. If you are interested in having soothing background music with you meal you can call to find out who is playing during these times. The number is 707-875-2933.

The menu starters are Shrimp Scampi Parmigiano, Laura Chenelli’s Chevre with tapenade, Calamari, Antipasti assortment, and of course the New England Clam Chowder. A house salad or a Caesar salad is 5.95 for a half and 8.95 full salad. There is also an Italian Chopped salad or Roshini Chicken salad for 7.50 a half or 13.50 full salad. There are seven options for Pasta dishes which range from 12.95 to 18.95. Sandwiches with a side salad are about 10.00. Pizza’s range from 9.00 to 15.00 and Nancy has introduced a new crust to go with the variety of toppings Ron prepares. Entrees are Cioppino starting at 19.95 and going to 28.95 as you add more crab and lobster; fish and chips, Snapper, Tilapia or Salmon 15.00 to 18.00 or a Chicken Marsala 15.95 or Top Sirloin and Prawns 19.95.

The wine list has wine by the glass for $6 to $8. There is sparkling wine and both light crisp and full bodied whites. The larger selection of reds includes one of my new favorites, Highway 12 ’06 Merlot for $30 or Highway 12 Blend ‘06 for $32. A list of well known local reds ranges from $26 to $49 and there are five selections of Italian Reds for $34 or less. They also serve a house red and house white at $22. Beer and Soda is also available.

The restaurant is open seven days a week from 11:30 a.m. to 9:00 p.m. In the winter and cooler months they close at 8:30 p.m. You can call for reservations at 875-2933.

Cioppino
Pizza-Pasta-Seafood

Pelican Plaza

1400 Highway One

Bodega Bay, CA 94923
707-875-2933

The photographs for this article were taken by Jack Journey Photography.

www.journeyphotographix.com

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Sonoma County Restaurant Review - Chef Patrick's in Guerneville

Chef Patrick's in Downtown Guerneville
in Pat's Restaurant is a Wonderful Surprise

Restaurant Review
By Carolyn Horan

CHEF PATRICK’s in Pat's Restaurant in Guerneville

In this job, I am always on the lookout for an interesting restaurant that has great food, friendly staff and reasonable prices. I was enjoying my weekly massage with Pam Hedinger, owner of Touch of Heaven in Guerneville, when she told me about Chef Patrick who serves dinner at Pat’s Restaurant in Guerneville on Main Street. Now Pat’s, for a long time, has been a favorite place of mine for breakfast and lunch because of their good food and good service. Pat’s is in a long narrow building with a counter on one side and booths on the other side. Next to the kitchen at the back is a rather dark room with tables which also connects to Pat’s bar. So I was a bit skeptical about this new gourmet chef. But one Saturday evening four friends and I went to check it out. Eureka! Like magic, about 4:30 or 5:00 p.m. a sign goes up outside the window of the diner that says “CHEF PATRICK”. We entered through the bar and a friendly gentleman greeted us. When we told him we came for dinner he escorted us through the door into the back room. A very friendly waitress then joined him and we were on our way to a unique culinary experience.

Our party ordered different entrees so we had a chance to taste them all. Two people had Fillet Mignon with blue cheese, I had sole stuffed with crab, one had lamb and the other savored the special Risotto dish. Every meal was cooked to perfection and the presentation was first class. We all shared a crème brulee and the signature dessert, “Bread Pudding” (which was the best I have had in a long time). The most expensive entree was the steak which ran about $23.00. The prices are very reasonable, including the wine. What a pleasant surprise since the cost of wine can often be the most expensive part of your bill.

When I interviewed Patrick Wong I found he lives in Petaluma with his wife, Sandra, and their two children, a boy 7 and a girl 6. He met Richard Hines, owner of Pat’s, who agreed to lease space to Patrick to operate his business. Pat’s is open for breakfast and lunch from 6:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. and Chef Patrick comes in about 3:30 to start cooking for the dinner service which starts at 5:00 p.m. This works well and gives Patrick a chance to pick up his kids from school before he goes off to Guerneville. Prior to coming to Guerneville, Patrick worked in San Francisco for a private catering firm that served wealthy clients and private parties. When he came to this country from Vietnam Patrick found that he could get work in the restaurant business. He ended up going to a cooking school and worked for a time for the Sheraton Hotel. When I asked him why he decided to become a Chef he said he now loves cooking and creating good food, he likes meeting his customers and making them smile. In general, he said everything about his career is “all joyful”.

Patrick said he can’t afford to advertise but he steered me to a web site called Trip Advisors where people send in tips from their travels. I found comments from people who had visited the Russian River area that rated Chef Patrick’s highly and comments were all positive. Here are three examples: “Amazing find – unlikely spot.” “What is he doing in this little town? We don’t know. We just feel lucky we found him.”

“Unbelievably good.” The day I did this interview the waitress said a couple having a drink in the bar had come for dinner because they had heard of Chef Patrick. She had their card which she showed me and the patron was an instructor at the Culinary Institute of America.

Here is what Chef Patrick’s says about his cooking. He specializes in French and Italian cuisine and emphasizes preparing basic “comfort” food at reasonable prices. Everything he makes is gourmet using seasonal food and local fresh produce because the prices are a good value when in season. He creates different flavors using a variety of spices and each recipe is unique.

I loved the food and the service was excellent. Chef Patrick does all the cooking and still finds time to check on your table and make sure you have everything you need. That might not last as the word gets out. The menu is varied and includes things like Pan Seared Salmon, Roasted Pork Loin, Chicken Marsala, Saut’eed Prawns Provencial, grilled New York Steak, Vegetarian Capellini and more. The prices are reasonable and I think you will have a good time and be glad you gave Chef Patrick a try. Dinner is served Thursday through Monday between the hours of 5:00 p.m. to 9:30 or 10:00 p.m. The address is 16236 Main Street, Guerneville, CA. The phone number is 869 9161.

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Soonoma County Restaurant - Humble Pie, Penngrove, CA

THE HUMBLE PIE RESTAURANT

West Sonoma is such a wonderful and unique place that I have no trouble finding interesting places for eating out. But I wandered into Penngrove with friends one night in November to go to a restaurant that I want to share with you.

First off, Penngrove reflects the charm of many West County small communities. As you drive east on Old Redwood Highway turn right on Main Street and after you cross the railroad tracks there is an old building that is itself “pie shaped” and houses the Black Cat Bar and the Humble Pie Restaurant as well as hotel rooms on the second floor. When you visit the restaurant be sure to check out the memorabilia in the bathroom that takes up the “pointy end” of the pie shaped building. The address is 10056 Main Street, Penngrove, and the phone number is 664-8779. HUMBLE PIE is open Wednesday and Thursday from 5 P.M. to 11 P.M. and Friday and Saturday 5 P.M. to 12 A.M. I am one of those night time people who love to find a place you can get a really fine dinner at 10:00 at night. Starting this month Humble Pie is also serving Sunday Brunch from 10 A.M. to 3 P.M.

You will be greeted by Joshua Norwitt who owns this restaurant with Miriam Donaldson and partners Dan Mccann and Brook Mccann. Dan is the one on the right in the picture and the Chef for the Restaurant. Miriam also does much of the cooking and Josh takes care of the front of the house. The restaurant has six tables and holds twenty five to thirty people. Music is played on a turntable on the counter by the kitchen and you are encouraged to look over the LP vinyl records and play what you like. Perhaps you might want to bring your own LP and share it with the rest of the diners for the evening. There is a door between the restaurant and the bar so you can always order whatever you want from the bar in this friendly and cozy atmosphere. Miriam tells me the customers are mostly local and range in age from a more mature crowd (usually the early diners) to a younger crowd (often later diners) and those in between.

Miriam and Joshua are independent survivors. They met in San Diego but moved up here to live with other family members on a 165 acre ranch toward the coast. Various family members share the interest in gardening and ranch life. The first step in preparation for the restaurant business was to plant a huge garden and experiment with as many varieties of vegetables and fruits as seemed practical. Canning and preserving the food they grow is high on their list. They are now adding 3 or 4 goats and are considering raising a pig. The ranch had been a sheep ranch in the past and still is home for two old cows living out their golden years.

As you would expect, the food at the Humble Pie reflects all the fresh and seasonally local produce that is available. They change the menu every week but there are a couple things that the customers insist they keep on the menu.

One is ‘BLUE BALLS & HANDMADE KETCHUP – beef and pork meatballs stuffed with Point Reyes Blue Cheese’ which is one of the “small plate” offerings for $8. But since most everything changes I am going to give you the menu from the first week in January. Two other small plates include ‘Winter Salad – buttery croutons’, roasted butternut squash, green apple, black currants, cabbage and bacon” for $8 and Cheese Ball – goat cheese and green onion rolled in sweet red pepper and walnut served with cucumber slices and sliced baguette for $7.

For the supper section you have 4 choices: MUSHROOM KINGDOM – parmesan polenta cakes, slathered in vegetable ragout, served cheesy with a green salad for $15; PORK CHOPS – two center cut pork chops with apple & black currant compote on mashed potatoes served with a salad for $17; GREEN ON GREEN – handmade spinach fettucine with avocado cream sauce topped with rosemary tomatoes and bacon served with a salad for $15; and GLORIOUS GRAVY AND ROSEMARY BISCUITS along with local sausage served with a big ol’ green salad for $13. For dessert you can have a piece of pie ( there may be more than one choice) and topped with vanilla ice cream, if you like, for $5. (by the way – you’ll love the prices on the wine list.)

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REVIEW: Terrapin Creek Cafe/Restaurant of Bodega Bay

TERRAPIN CREEK CAFE in Bodega Bay is just down the hill from Hwy 1 on the north side of the town of Bodega Bay. Turn west when you see Second Wind (kites & candy, etc.) on the corner…you'll see the restaurant on your right next to Local Color gallery.

Terrapin Creek of Bodega Bay - Tasteful & Serene

If you’re looking for a TERRAPIN you look for a creek that is found along the eastern and southern part of the U. S. that has both fresh and brackish water. There you will find the little Terrapin turtle that was given an Algonquian Indian name meaning “a turtle that is very edible”. But if you are on the West Coast of the U. S. you can find TERRAPIN CREEK in Bodega Bay. It is a restaurant located at 1580 Eastshore Road which is the road you turn on to go to Bodega Head. Now I didn’t find any turtle soup on the menu but they serve a Mediterranean Fish Stew. On a night I was dining there a customer at the next table told the owner, “If you didn’t have anything on the menu but this it would be worth coming here over and over again.” Now I haven’t tried the Fish Stew myself but I intend to.

The new owners of this cozy restaurant are Andrew and Liya Truong. In college Andrew, a laid back easy going lad from Georgia was a computer science major and Liya, who was a high energy New York girl was getting her degree in economics. But their interest in cooking took them to Culinary School and when they completed that they set out on a four year plan. For the first part of the plan they drove 40 hours from the East to San Francisco to find an apartment and jobs. They both worked in various restaurants, mostly typical Chinese restaurants and learned as much as they could about the restaurant business from – pardon the expression – soup to nuts. The end of the four year plan was to own their own restaurant so when they found the SeaWeed Cafe in Bodega Bay advertised for sale, they bought it. Liya does most of the cooking and makes the pastries and Andrew handles the soups and sauces and works the front of the house.

The cuisine is mainly California style food with an Asian influence. The menu follows the seasonal vegetables and fruits from the area as they like to take advantage of the fresh produce which they pick up daily on their commute from Sebastopol to Bodega Bay. For example they had gravenstein apple tart and a sweet potato pie for dessert the day of this interview. The atmosphere is comfortable and casual and becomes a little more formal in the evening with candles and fresh flowers. The service is attentive but Andrew says he tries to provide the best service while not interfering with the customers dining pleasure.

Liya and Andrew do all the preparation and cooking and handle the lunch themselves, but they have three employees that help during dinner. The menu has nine items for Starters, several of which are very unique. I had Manila Clams & Homemade Chorizo served on a small plate with creamy Yukon Potatoes, Smoked Pepper Aioli, and a Fennel White Wine Broth for $12. Now that is something you don’t see every day. They also serve Artisan Bread with McEvoy Ranch Organic Olive Oil.

The dinner menu is small but well rounded with options for different pallets. Entrees include the Mediterranean Fish Stew $25, Homemade Pappardelle Pasta with Tomato Braised Beef Sugo, sautéed Tuscan Kale and Parmesan Cheese $20, Liberty Farms Duck Breast with Butternut Squash Puree, Roasted Brussel Sprouts, Maple Glazed Bacon in a Red Wine Onion Jus $25, Organic Soba Noodles with Herb-crusted Potobello Mushrooms and Spinach in a Curry-tomato broth $18, and Slow-Cooked Sonoma Lamb Shank with roasted tomatoes and eggplant, with creamy Farro and Feta Cheese for $26.

The lunch menu along with the homemade soup and salads has a sausage & white bean Cassoulet $12, Nicoise Egg Salad Sandwich $9, Zoe’s Prosciutto Panini $11, Pappardelle Pasta $14, and of course, Mediterranean Fish Stew $21. If you just want to snack you can get a selection of local cheese served with seasonal fruit and toasted baguettes for $13 to enjoy with a glass of wine from a very extensive wine list of mostly local wines but also get Sake or beer. The desserts carefully prepared by Liya are $8.

Currently they are open from Thursday through Sunday from 11:00 to 2:30 and 4:30 to 9:00. They are considering adding Wednesday, but it would be a good thing to call ahead of time. 1580 Eastshore Road, Bodega Bay. 707 875.2700. Also you might want to check their web site www.terrapincreekcafe.com

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REVIEW: Sam's For Play Café - Santa Rosa

SAM’S FOR PLAY CAFÉ
Looking for a home away from home? Looking for a place, like Cheers, where everybody knows your name? Try SAM’S, founded by Sam Anker.

Sam grew up loving a business where she could interact with the customers. Her mom owned “Dot’s Donuts” in Montgomery Village and Sam spent 25 years working in local restaurants before she decided to open her own. All work and no play was definitely not in Sam’s plans. She wanted to have a restaurant where people could come for home made food and feel just like they were “at home”. Her criteria: quality, home style meals, immaculate & pleasant atmosphere, excellent service, attention to detail and a place that would be fun. She called her customers by their first name and truly appreciated their daily patronage.

On May 1, 1985, Sam opened her first restaurant on Sebastopol road and September 6, 2000 Sam’s For Play Café opened at 2630 Cleveland Avenue in Santa Rosa. I went to this site with a friend who had a business in that area. Of course everyone knew her name and I was blown away by the friendly feeling and the quality of the food. Our waitperson’s name tag was “Anita Raise”. I soon found out that all the staff could make up their own name tags. Examples are “Bev Ridges” and “Diana Hunger” or “Anita Coffee.”

I spoke to “Al Dente” who said he had worked there for about 5 years and he loved his job. One employee has been there for 17 plus years and 12 others have been there over 8 years. I was told everyone was treated the same, dishwasher to manager, and friendliness was key. So I decided to ask the Manager, Troy Anker, what some of his favorite stories were. He told about the customer who actually found a huge fresh CULTURED PEARL in an oyster in his Hang Town Fry. (Yes, the food is all fresh). The customer let the staff display the pearl for a week before he had it made into a necklace for his wife. Another story is the 98 year old customer whose birthday is December 31st. For many years now, every Dec 31st she is there for dinner and the crew pops a bottle of champagne to celebrate her birthday. It seems that the core customers number about 100 and are there almost every day. They are loyal, consistent and predictable such as Bernice Bourne who had her 90th birthday the week I did this interview.

All the items on the menu are cooked to order. You can get breakfast all day which is a plus from my point of view. For lunch you can select from Sam’s Favorites which range in price from $7.95 for quesadillas to $11.95 for N.Y. Steak sandwich; and a variety of burgers from $5.25 to $8.95. Sam’s has an old American tradition, the BLUE PLATE SPECIAL served Monday through Friday for $5.95. If salads are your passion you can pick from eleven different salads ranging in price from $2.50 to $10.95. Also there is daily home made soup or chili from $2.95 a cup or $4.95 for a large bowl.

Dinner offers appetizers, salads and twelve selections of meat, chicken or fish. If your family has one big eater and one not so big eater you can order A LA Carte or a full dinner. For example: A New York steak with mushrooms and fresh vegetables is yours for $11.95 A La Carte but if you want the full dinner with soup or salad, garlic bread and your choice of rice or four different styles of potatoes the cost is $13.95. On Friday and Saturday night you can order their Special Prime Rib Dinner for $14.95 or get it A La Carte for $12.95. Now for those of us who are of a certain age and really can’t eat a lot they have a ‘Senior Dinner Menu’ with many of the same items on the regular menu and the price ranges from $6.95 to $9.95 A La Carte. But I suggest you check the menu out for yourself at www.samsforplaycafe.com.

The phone number is 528 2929 at the Cleveland Avenue restaurant. Sam’s For Play Café is open Monday thru Saturday from 6:00 a m. to 9:00 p.m. On Sunday the hours are 7:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. They also offer catering and box lunches for groups and have a banquet room for special events.

And yes, Sam is still around. She makes all the pies which you can buy and take home. She also loves to travel and spend time with her children and 6 grandchildren and 3 great grandchildren. Good for you Sam.

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River's End Restaurant & Inn, Jenner, CA

Carolyn Horan takes on a culinary journey to Sonoma County restaurants she just plain enjoys. Her reviews are more than about food, they are about our community and the people who choose to feed us with their food, their time and their lives.


RIVER’S END Restaurant & Inn at 11048 Highway 1 on the coast in Jenner provides a quality experience with good food, presentation and service. The drive to Jenner on Highway 116 West takes you along the Russian River to the River’s End restaurant which sits on the cliff overlooking the ocean. The evening sunset adds to the romantic feeling of the restaurant. You might start with a special artisan cocktail. The chef (yes, Patrick Keane’s title is Cocktail Chef) creates classic cocktails with flavors and ingredients that will expand your conception of the pre-dinner cocktail. He trained at the French Culinary Institute but always had an appreciation for the bar. He wants to contribute to a whole new level of contemporary dining. As example you might try a Kaffir Lime Drop made with Hanger One Kaffir Lime vodka and fresh lime juice served in a citrus sugar rimmed glass, or a Cucumber Gimlet made with Hendricks Gin, fresh cucumber water and lime. If you want something more traditional I recommend Patrick’s Old Fashioned made with Maker’s Mark Whiskey or try his Rasberry Mojito or Cadillac Margarita. If you don’t want alcohol you can try one of five different non-alcoholic specialties. All alcoholic cocktails are $11 and non-alcoholic are $5.

You can select from several appetizers followed by soup or salad. I tried the Crispy Duck Confit Rolls - $12. The presentation of this dish adds to the pleasure of the taste and 4 people could share this appetizer. If you are a fan of beets I suggest the Technicolor beet salad which consists of roasted multi-colored beets layered with mascarpone and goat cheese, macadamia nuts and fresh basil with an orange balsamic vinaigrette for $14

Along with the daily special main courses include Fish, Pork, Filet Mignon, Duck, Elk or vegetarian with prices ranging from $18 to $49. There is a special Dungeness Crab Tasting Menu at a price fixe. I suggest you go to www.ilovesunsets.com to check this out. As a diner, you can see the chef at work through a glass enclosed kitchen and marvel at the presentation of all these meals. The Executive Chef is David Dahlquist , a young man who has literally spent half his life working in Sonoma County restaurant kitchens and loves the influences of all kinds of tastes: Asian, Mexican, Thai, Latin as example which he integrates into the flavors of California with local fresh products.


So how did these talented chefs end up in a restaurant on the coast? Bert Rangel and his wife, Stephanie, visited River’s End, staying in one of the cottages on a vacation in 1992. Bert fell in love with the setting and told Stephanie he wanted to live there- some day. In 1998 Bert was flying to San Francisco from Mexico City to meet Stephanie and some of their friends to spend a few days in Sonoma County. When Bert settled into his seat on the plane he opened the Wall Street Journal and ‘lo and behold’ there was a for sale ad for River’s End Restaurant and Inn. To make a long story short a few months later the deal was closed and Bert changed his profession from working on developing high tech facility projects to working the “front of the house” at River’s End, a job he loves. Stephanie continues with her profession scheduling construction projects which take her all over the world. They live in Jenner with their two children but find time to travel and visit restaurants to see what their friends and others are achieving with their culinary pursuits. Bert says, “I want River’s End to be a great value and experience. It’s too easy to be average, we want to be spectacular.” Bert has created a culture for the restaurant based on six guidelines: 1) what is the feeling (for the customer)upon walking in the door, 2) a music style that is pleasing for diners, 3) how does the staff approach and communicate with customers, 4) the quality of the food, 5) the presentation of the entire dining experience, and 6) the ambiance.

The restaurant received an ‘Award of Excellence’ in 2002 and has wine by the half bottles plus 17 options for wine by the glass. There is an extensive menu for your ‘Night Cap’ including cordials, ports, muscat, Riesling, brandy & congnac and single malt scotch. If you prefer to end the meal with dessert you could try chocolate mousse, old English Trifle, Mascarpone filled poached pear, creme brulee or house made ice cream.

Horan@sonic.net

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RESTAURANT REVIEW: Langley's on the Green

Langley's on Windsor's Town Green is a melting pot of family and food from across the planet, served in an open and friendly environment.


LANGLEY’S ON THE GREEN is located at 610 McClelland Dr. in Windsor. This is a first class restaurant that the owners refer to as “user friendly”. When you have a party you know how everyone likes to hang out in the kitchen, even though you decorated the living room and made sure there were comfortable areas for people to get together all through the house. This restaurant was designed with that in mind. There is a Dining Bar facing an ‘Open Exhibition Kitchen’ so customers who are so inclined can dine there, talk to the chefs and see all the dishes coming up for service in the rest of the restaurant. If that is not your style you can choose a cozy booth or regular tables in the dining area. Weather permitting you can also sit outside on the patio.

The menu changes with the seasons. Reflecting the concept of America as a melting pot the menu can include dishes with Italian influence, Asian inspired dishes or a variety of other ethnic selections. One thing they all have in common is the standard of fresh ingredients, cooked to perfection with an exquisite presentation. Everything is made from scratch -- for example the sauces are all prepared in reduction and not thickened with flour. All seafood is sustainable (not farm raised) and fruits and vegetables are organic as much as possible. They whip the butter so it is soft for easy spreading on the bread or rolls which are all homemade. Two examples of the current menu, each of which offers a full meal or a smaller version include: House Made Seafood Linguini with Dayboat Sea Scallops, Mussels and Clams, Sauteed with Andoille Sausage, in a Garlic White Wine Cream Sauce with Shaved Parmaigiano Reggiano for $29.95 or Linguini with Vegetables and White Wine Cream Sauce and Shaved Parmiagiano Reggiano for $16.95 – or a meat dish -- Grilled Pork Tenderloin with Cherry Reduction Sauce, Hoisin Glaze, Scallion Croquette Potatoes and Miso Orange Slaw with Sesame Seeds for $27.95 or a Petite Cut for $18.95. All the entrees include a suggested wine to pair with the food or you can select from the wine list. All desserts are $8.95 and are made in the restaurant.

So who is the chef that creates all these dishes and supervises the impressive presentation and service? None other than Fred Langley. I interviewed Katrina and Albert Von Moos, Fred’s parents and part of the team that makes Langley’s successful, and learned that Fred has been interested in cooking and the restaurant business since he started at age 12 helping in the kitchen at Salt Point Lodge where his mother worked. A European trained chef on the staff of Salt Point took Fred under his wing and taught him a lot over a period of six years. Fred then went to work for John Ash & Co under Executive Chef Jeffrey Madura and became the Souix Chef there. He has extensive experience in the catering business in Sonoma along with his wife Sara, who now divides her time between taking care of 2 year old Jack and coordinating Special Events for the restaurant.

One of the unique services of the restaurant is their Happy Hour which is daily from 5:00 to 6:00 p.m. and also on Friday and Saturday nights from 8:30 to 9:30 p.m. There is a ‘Bar Bite Menu’ available during Happy Hour that offers Mimi Burgers or Mini Pork Sandwiches for $1.00, jumbo garlic fries for $2.00 or Pork and Ginger Pot Stickers with spicy dipping sauce for $3.50. Wells drinks are $3.00, beers on tap $3.00 and House Margaritas, Martinis or glass of wine for $5.00.

Langley’s supports the community in many ways and sponsors four major events each year which include the Croquet Invitational supporting the “Make A Wish Foundation,” the Kendall Jackson Tomato Festival benefiting the “School Garden Network” and the Crush Festival benefiting St. John’s school in Healdsburg. Fred Langley works with the culinary students at the local high schools and mentors students from the Santa Rosa Junior College Culinary program.

Langley’s on the Green is open seven nights a week from 5:30 to 8:30 and Saturday and Sunday from 5:30 to 9:00. For more information you can check the web site http://www.langleysonethegreen.com/ or call 707 837 7984.

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RESTAURANT REVIEW: Bistro Des Copains

Occidental's Bistro Des Copains is a dream come true for partners Michel and Cluney, as well as consistently welcoming to locals and guests.


Bistro Des Copains in Occidental

Michel Augsburger and Cluney Stagg have been buddies and best friends since college. When Michel decided to fulfill his dream to open a restaurant his friend agreed to be a partner. Hence, the name Bistro de Copains (which means ‘buddies or friends). They are also business partners in their ‘Day Job’. Michel is the CEO of his own business, Chancellor Health Care, which operates several senior living communities throughout the country, and Cluney is the CFO. Michel is also Vice Chairman of the Assisted Living Federation of America, a trade association. So why would a person with so many irons in the fire and a frantically busy schedule decide to run a successful restaurant? For Michel, it is his love of French food and his passion for creating the menu and the friendly atmosphere and high quality of the restaurant itself. Michel has a huge library of cook books and he told me that two years before launching this venture he was playing with the menu on his laptop and thinking about the potential restaurant.

The restaurant, located in Occidental, offers the perfect venue with its intimate dining area, the patio, and the two wood burning ovens. The building (circa 1911) only needed some remodeling to meet Michel’s vision. There are historic pictures decorating the Bistro de Copains walls of Michel’s grandmother and father on the family farm in France. Michel’s background included time as a boy living in France where he learned the language and developed his love for the cuisine. He returns often to visit relatives and vacation.

Where does one start if you aren’t a trained chef and you want to open a first class restaurant? How about advertising on Craig’s List for a chef. That is what happened and a very talented chef, trained at a Culinary School in the Northwest, answered the call and worked with Michel and Cluney to refine recipes prior to, and after, the opening of the restaurant. As a matter of fact, all the rest of the staff have been there since the opening two years ago. With good planning and the enthusiasm of the people involved, the restaurant’s opening night served 51 people for the first dinner. The following of customers has stayed with them. While most are local people there are others, such as the couple from San Francisco, who dine at least once a week at the Bistro. So keep this in mind and make reservations so you won’t be disappointed.

The food is excellent as is the service. You are welcomed and treated like royalty. You might start with a Mousse d’Asperge et Chevre served warm on bioche toast with mixed greens ($10) or Croquettes de Morue (salt cod) with lemon roasted garlic aioli ($10) or Soupe a L ‘Oignon Gratine ($9) from among several starters. For the light diners try the Risotto aux Safran wth the bouillabaisse sauce ($16), the Raviolis aux Poireau ($16) or one of the Pizzas ($14). There are specialty entrees including pan-seared halibut, Harris Ranch hanger steak, duck breast, Coquilles Saint-Jacques, Half-roasted “Rosie” chicken, oven roasted loin of lamb, beef braised in red wine to name a few. The price range is from $20.00 to $23.00 on these items. There are other vegetable and potato options A la Carte. My favorite is the Gratin de Macaroni ($8), but I haven’t tried the Gratin Dauphinois yet. You can also order a selection of local artisan and imported French cheeses served with artisan bread, house made crackers, fruit and nuts. The wine list is extensive and offers many options by the glass. There are over 50 selections of Sonoma County red wines and over 15 selections of white or Rose wines. There are about 20 choices of French reds and almost an equal amount of white wines from France. And, if it is Sparkling wines you want with your French cuisine you can choose from 6 varieties. They also have dessert wines and aperitifs available by the glass.

Make your plans and reservations to visit Bistro Des Copains which is open seven (7) nights a week --5:00 until 9:00 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and 5:00 until 10:00p.m. Friday and Saturday. You’ll find the Bistro at 3782 Bohemian Highway in Occidental and the phone number is 707 874-2436.

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